Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/48

42 HALF FITTING JACKET

LESSON NO. 8.

This garment begins the same way as the others with the exception of its style which is halt fitted; this diagram is also followed by the same measurement as all other drafts.

To begin, measure the depth of natural waist length and hip length at A, B, C, to D as all others; from B to G and D to E is ⅔ of size, or 12 inches; now divide B to G which makes H; from H to I is 1¼ inches. Now draw a line from I to J, this is the width of back line. From A to K is 1 sixth of size or 3 inches; from K to L is 1 inch. Draw a line from L to J and M to I. Now take half of M and I which makes 25; N is 1 inch below 25; from M to N is the armhole at the back, then take half of I and H which makes 26. Take a straight stick from J against 26, and draw a line at the same time from 26 to V and make a mark at 4, which is on the hip line, from 4 to 2 is 1 inch and from V to 3 is also 1 inch. Now cross a line from 3 to 4, from 3 cross a line between 1 and 26, 21 is ½ inch, raise up from the side body from N for a seam allowance. From G to 5 and E to 6 is ¾ of an inch; this ¾ of an inch is here planned the opposite way than the tight-fitting garment; the -'4 of an inch space is not used as this garment is cut with ons side body and we only occupy one seam instead of two. To make clearly understood between the tight-fitting and half-fitting, for a tight-fitting, this ¾ of an inch is increased for a seam; for a half fitting, this ¾ of an inch is decreased, as we do not need the seam for this garment as the garment has one gore less than the tight-fitting garment.

Now begin the front; from 8 to 9 is ¾ of an inch; from 6 to 14 is 1 inch, from E to 23 is ¾ of an inch. Then cross lines from G to 9, from 9 to 14 and from 7 to 23. Begin the front shoulder from O to T; cross a line from O to 24, the front shoulder; this is always the same width as the back shoulder. Draw a line from 24 to F for the front arm hole. Now measure the bust; from T to U is half of bust measurement; from U to 1 is 3 inches for seams. Cross a square line from 1 to 22 from Y to Z is J of an inch; this is half of the regular allowance. From Y to 12 is 2¼ inches always. Now cross lines from 9 to 12 and from 1 to Z and 20; from 20 to 13 is ½ inch.

Now begin the dart: X is half of F and 1. Measure 1 to X and take the same from Z to 28 Now cross a line from X to 28, 15 and 11. Then divide X to 15 which makes 10. This is the line for the dart in front. The dart for half-fitting garments is a half decrease, as the tight fitting garment, from 15 to 15 is 5 inch; from 15 to 17 is 1½ inches. Now cross a straight line from 15 to 27 and draw a straight line down to 19; from 27 to 19 should be the same as from 16 to 18. All outlines are now ready. Begin to curve: from A, L, M to N; from N to V and 2, this completes the back.

Now begin the side body: from 2l to 3 and 4, also from 21 to 5, 7 and 23, and bottom from 4 to 23. Then begin the front; from G, 9, 14 and 19 the armhole, from G to 24 and shoulder to O; from O to W, 1, Z and 13 to 18 as shown on diagram. This completes the half-fitting jacket.