Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/46

40 ETON FRONT WITH DART ON TOP.

LESSON NO. 7.

In order to prepare this pattern the most easiest way we need first to cut out the 2 parts of the french seam front of a eton jacket and then mark out first the outside part of the front on a seperate sheet of paper which is as follows, from A to G, G to F, H to I and I to J and finish from J to F. When this front part is already marked out connect the 2 lower parts of the 2 fronts where the dart appears as usual on the eton jacket and lap over at that place the inside front pattern from J to C and from N to O with ¾ of an inch which is the usual amount of taking off seams and then there will remain a dart opened on top of the front; but be very careful that before placing these 2 patterns together to make this dart on top of front, it is first necessary for us to take even the 2 fronts from the top point of the shoulder so that when you will make the connection of closing the dart at the bottom, there will not be any misunderstanding of matching the equal lengths between the 2 fronts at the upper dart. Now when you have already placed the 2 fronts to lap over ¾ of an inch at the lower part where the usual dart is, continue in marking out the entire inner front part which is from O to D, D to E, E all around the armhole to A. A to B and B to C.

Now finish the bottom with a new curve from B to F as shown on the diagram and now allow a seam on the top dart. Remember that there is 2 different ways of preparing this pattern which is without seams or with seams allowed. If the pattern of this front as prepared with front seam all the way down there is no use of allowing a special seam as it is shown on this diagram between D and L down to M and between I and K down to M; but if this pattern is prepared just by a dart front and then splited from the dart up to the shoulder then it is absolutely necessary to allow a special seam as it is shown on the diagram before.

This pattern can also be prepared from another pattern and also for another purpose. When a dart on top is wanted for another jacket all we need to do is to cut out the jacket with a dart below the best as a rule and then split the same way from the dart up to the shoulder point and then close the lower dart and then you will see there will come an opening from the bust point up to the shoulder point for the use of a dart on top of shoulder and all you have to do is to allow for seams of inches to each and which will make then inches for seams ¾ or for the entire seam or when such top dart is prepared by a french seam jacket you do not have to allow any seam directly as the seam is already allowed to both parts of the front. Always remember that this action is only suited to a half fitting jacket and it will not be very practical for a tight fitting garment.