Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/42

36 ETON JACKET

LESSON NO. 4.

The Eton is built on the same outlines as all other garments, these garments are planned to natural waist length only. From A to B is 7 inches depth, from A to C is 15½ inches natural waist length; now draw lines from A to W, from B to R and from C to V. Now make the outlines the same as the others from B to G is ⅓ of size or 12 inches and from C to E is also 12 inches; now draw a line from E to G and up to the top line, now divide B and G which makes H, from H to I is 1¼, inches, draw a line from F to 0. from Q to P is 1 sixth of size or 3 inches, from P to O is also 1 sixth of size or 3 inches, from P to W is 1 sixth of size or 3 inches and a seam allowed. From C to 8 is 2 inches, draw a line from 8 to A, now connect a line from the front neck point O to the back depth T. Measure the back shoulder from L to M and make the same from O to U for the front, shoulder and connect a line from U to F.

Now begin to make the side seam, this seam can be placed at any part of the armhole. This diagram is showing how to make the underarm seam towards the back and therefore divide between I and G which makes N. From N to 5 and 6 is ¾ inches on both sides, now draw a straight line down from N to make 7 from 7 to E and 10 of both sides takeout 2 inches. Now connect lines from 5 to 10 and from 6 to E. The length of waist shall be made shorter in back for this garment by a ½ inch as shown on diagram as 8 to D, 10 to 4, E to 9.

Now measure the bust, from T to S is 19½ inches, this is 39 bust measure, from S to R there is 3 inches for seams, now make a straight line down from R to V and Y, from V to Y is ½ of size or 2¼ inches, this makes a long waist in front. From W to Z is ¾ inches, this space is only raised up in order to get the close tight fitting neck. From Z to 1 is 1 inch tor button stand, from R to S is also 1 inch, from Y to X is 1 inch for button stand.

Now begin to curve from Z, R, V and Y, this line k the edge of front. From Z to 1, R to 2, Y to X is 1 inch allowed for button stand. Curve this the same as the inside line from Z to Y. For hook and eye front, use the inside front without the button stand and for buttoning purposes include the 1 inch space for button stand. Now we begin to curve from A, L, M to 5 also curve on both sides of the side body to 5 and 6. Now curve the armhole from 6 to G round up to U. From U to O is the front shoulder, the two shoulders should be curved alike, now curve the neck from O to Z and the hook for buttoning from Z to 1. Now curve the bottom of the waist from D to 4 and from 9 towards Y. We curve at Y a ½ inch up and finish up to X, this complete the Eton coat without any dart in front, this will make a loose front and no gathering is required.

Note that if you desire to have a full waist length for this Eton follow the action of the blouse of Lesson No. 3.