Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/40

34 WOMEN'S BLOUSE.

LESSON NO 3.

This lesson will complete the first and second lessons and when this lesson is complete, it is showing a blouse. To continue this lesson, we positively need to complete first the outlines of the first and second lessons and then we continue as follows:

To begin lesson No. 3, divide the armhole in order to bring an underarm seam and in order to get the under arm seam in the center of the armhole, divide between H and M which makes AA and draw a line from AA down to BB. Now take out both sides of AA at the breast line from AA to E and from AA to EE ¾ of an inch and on the waist line both sides of BB to DD and to CC 2 inches to each side and connect with side seam line from E to DD which completes the side seam for the front and from EE to CC which will complete the side seam for the back. When these lines are drawn, we are about ready to make all curves necessary for the entire blouse.

To begin to curve, curve first the shoulders as shown on the diagram at L and T take off of both shoulders ¼ of an inch and make such curves with a round stick from K lost to L for the back shoulder and from P lost to T for the front shoulder. Now make the curves for the armhole at the back from L to EE and for the front armhole from T to E as shown on the diagram. Remember, when making the curves of the armhole or the front, there shall be the highest a half inch space where the main brake is made for the front armhole above M. The main brake at this armhole means where the curve crossing the line which is drawn from T to M below CC and below DD ½ inch and then curve from II below CC as shown on the diagram and also below D with a ½ inch out to the straight line to X and curve from X to Z. From Y to Z is ½ inches. Remember, that the space between W and X may be changed. The full length of this space is 3 inches but for the entire waist line this can be changed to 2 or 1½ inches the shortest, and then when this space is decided, a line is drawn from DD to X out to Y.

The neck curves shall be made so that the curves shall not be too strong, meaning not too much curved out or not too straight. Curve proportionally and begin at the back first from A to K which completes the neck curve at the back and from P to R is the front neck curve. Notice that this neck curve is raised from Q to R ¾ inches which gives a close high fitting neck, but when lower neck wanted, this amount of ¾ must not be increased and the neck curve can then be made from P to Q.

To cut out this blouse draft, it shall be kept in mind that when this pattern is cut out, it is all ready for use and all seams are allowed and therefore no seams whatever shall be allowed. In order to begin to cut out, we, as a rule, begin the back and therefore begin to cut from A to II and from A to K and L, from L all around the armhole to EE, from EE to CC to the lower bottom line and from II to CC to the lower curve line. This instruction will make the back part cut-out.

To cut out the front part, begin at T up to P, from P to R, R to Z and from Z to X according to the curves of the lower part to DD. Now continue cutting the armhole from T all around to E and down to the bottom of the side seam from E to D down to the curve line as shown on the diagram. This will complete how to cut out the entire pattern of front and back.

Now remember, that seams are allowed all over to this pattern and when placing the edge of the front or the edge of the back to the double fold of the goods where no seam is wanted, deduct ⅜inch for such half seam which will double that amount to ¾ to the double cloth or any material what it may be from time to time and this seam shall be deducted for the simple reason because the seam may increase the garment where such seam is not used and it will therefore be deducted where such seam is not wanted.