Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/36

30 WOMAN'S JACKET FOUNDATION

Lesson No. 1

I shall now commence to explain the drafting of a foundation of a woman's model size 36 and in order to succeed in drafting, the student has to remember every step which is made at  the beginning as the beginning lines according to this system are always to be repeated for each and every garment. It shall therefore be understood that this system is based on the most simplified method because the very first foundation lines are to be used for all the continuous lessens. The foundation lines shown in the first lesson are covering the space of the body from the neck down to the natural waist length and it therefore consists of 3 lines which are called Top line, Breast line and Waist line and in order to begin use the following standard measurements of size 36.

Now begin to draft; draw a square line from A to R and from A to C and remember that the line from A to R is the Top line and from A to C is the center back line to which you have to stand next in order to have the draft in front of you in the proper manner. Now measure from A to B 7 inches back depth and from A to C 15½ inches natural waist length. Then draw a line across from B to W and from C to X. After these lines are crossed measure from A to D, B to E and from C to F ⅓ of size or 12 inches for size 36 and draw a line from D, E to F.

Now begin the width of back; take half of B to E which makes G and allow from G to H 1¼ inches and then measure the space between B to H and place the same from A to I and draw a line from 1 to H. From A to J measure $1/undefined$ of size or 3 inches for size 36 and from J to K raise up 1 inch and from K draw a line out against I to L.

Now produce the back shoulder; draw a line from K against I to L. This space shall be 6 inches for size 36 but in order that this space or width of shoulder shall come up naturally without memorizing this width of shoulder for each and every size a square ruler shall be applied on this line from K to L to meet H and it will prove or bring the original width of shoulder for every size systematically. Now make the ink line for the center back; make frcm C to M 2 inches and draw a line from M up to A and remember that this space between C to M is always 2 inches for all women's sizes. Before we go any further remember the name of each cross line made at A, Band C. The line from A to R is called Top line; the line from B to W is called  the Breast line and the line from C to X is called Waist line. If there are any other cross lines to be produced for the continuous lessons each additional line will have its proper name. See next lesson for continuation.