Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/32

26 THE MEASUREMENTS WHICH WE USE AND HOW WE USE THEM.

In order to begin a system of drafting the right way, we first have to prepare a set of good measurements in such form that the student shall well understand them and from where such measurements are out-grown and the use of each measurement, therefore may be well understood. It shall be therefore also understood that each and every measurement brings a different use which builds a part of the garment and therefore such measurements are carrying great responsibility. It is therefore necessary to study well every particular measurement which I herewith give as follows: When taking measurements, remember that the following instruction is given how to take measurements for a regular size 36 and this rule may be applied to any other regular sizes. The table of regular proportions are therefore given in these pages and in order to know what they particular are, keep in mind the following instruction.

The size is a measurement which we call the actual chest measurement which you can see taken all around the chest on the opposite page on figure No. 6 taken over the smallest part over the chest.

The bust measurement is an all around measurement over the fullest part of the bust which is shown on figure No. 7. This measurement serves for the purpose of knowing the fullest increase of bust measurement because this measurement may be increased or decreased from time to time to any one of the regular sizes.

The waist measurement is taken all around the smallest part of the figure which is shown on figure No. 8 and no matter what style it may be, the waist measurement shall always be taken tight.

The hip measurement is taken 6 inches below the waist as shown on figure No. 9.

The back depth is a measurement taken from the socket bone down to the opposite deepness of the armhole which is shown on figure No. 3. This measurement serves for the purpose of having a proper deepness between the socket bone to the armhole deepness.

The natural waist length is a measurement showing the waist length in back which is shown on figure No. 4 and it shall be understood that this measurement shall always be taken in the same manner, no matter what it may be, short or long waist.

The inside sleeve length shall always be taken at the inside of the sleeve, which is shown on figure No. 10.

The measurement for the collar shall be taken all around the neck not too close, neither too loose and therefore, there is no particular rule of taking measurements for the collar, but it shall be taken around the lowest part of the neck not under the chin and it shall be understood that such neck measurement is taken without seams and when instructions of how to cut such collar will be given, we will have to allow for additional seams.