Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/30

24 SCALE METHOD FOR DRAFTING In order to simplify the drafting shown in this work, there is herewith given a key of how drafting can be fully understood the most simplest way. The system herewith shown can be followed up in two different ways, which means by a division of a scale or regular inches and you will note that everything is explained in both ways, by scale and inch method.

By scale method is meant that certain spaces will read one-sixth, one-third or one-fourth and after the scale divisions, you will also note that there is always the amount in inches mentioned, which will simplify each step in drafting. It shall therefore be understood that the entire divisions used in drafting are as follows: two-thirds, one-half, one-third, one-fourth, one-sixth, one-eighth, one-twelfth and one-sixteenth, and the amounts for each for size 36 are as follows:

Two-thirds-12 inches, One-half--9 inches, One-third--6 inches, One-fourth--4½ inches, One-sixth--3 inches, One-eighth--2¼ inches, One-twelfth--1½ inches, One-sixteenth--1⅛ inches, and for other larger or smaller sizes accordingly.

For Misses' model size 16 for which the breast measurement is 34 inches, the divisions will be, Two-thirds--11⅜ inches, One-half--8½ inches, One-third--5⅝ inches, One-fourth--4¼ inches, One-sixth-2⅞ inches, One-eighth--2⅛ inches, One-twelfth--1 and seven-sixteenth inches, One-sixteenth--1 and one-sixteenth inches.

For Juniors' model size 15 for which the breast measurement is 33 inches the divisions will be, Two-thirds--11 inches, One-half--8¼ inches, One-third--5½ inches, One-fourth--4⅛ inches, One-sixth--2¾ inches, One eighth--2 and one-sixteenth inches, One-twelfth--1⅜ inches, One-sixteenth--1 inch. For Child's model size 10 for which the breast measurement is 30 inches, the divisions will be, Two-thirds--10 inches, One-half--7½ inches, One-third--5 inches, One-fourth--3¾ inches, One-sixth--2½., inches. One-eighth--1⅞ inches. One-twelfth--1¼ inches. One-sixteenth- -fifteen-sixteenths of an inch.

For Infants' model size 4 for which the breast measurement is 26 inches, the divisions will be. Two thirds--8⅝ inches, One-half--6½ inches, One-third-4 and five-sixteenth inches. One-fourth 3¼ inches, One-sixth-2 and three-sixteenth inches, One-eighth--1⅝ inches. One-twelfth--1⅛ inches, One-sixteenth--thirteen-sixteenths of an inch.

Your attention is particularly called to the fact that the amounts mentioned above for each division is only half the amount as we employ only half amounts for drafting as all patterns are drafted half way for each and every size. Two-thirds of 36 would fully amount to 24 not 12 or half would amount to 18 not 9, but you may therefore understand that for drafting we use only half the amount as it is to be found on every ordinary divisional square. In order that you may obtain divisions for the different sizes, you will find a table of all kinds of divisions in the following pages, which will simplify the way of obtaining divisions for any size desired, larger or smaller. You may also note that that particular table may be used for all sorts of divisions, which are as follows: Dividing gores for different tight-fitting jackets or to be used more particularly for dividing the gores of skirts or for many other purposes of dividing, which may be needed from time to time.