Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/28

22 SYSTEM OF PRACTICAL VALUE

The system, illustrated and explained in this work, is placed on original outlines and useful measurements. The platform measurements used for this system are as follows: Size, which may be called all around chest measurement, bust, waist and hip. These measurements are an outgrowth of Width Proportions. Except these measurements, we have back depth and natural waist length and these measurements are an outgrowth of the Height Divisions. The simplicity of this system lies in the constructional conditions where connections are made at the beginning. As the height and width measurements are combined, they work their necessity. To operate this system, the student only needs to know the size of the garment wanted and the length of the natural waist. Any bust measurement can be connected to any size. The waist and hip we can either increase or decrease. The foundation lines are the same for all kinds of styles or fittings wanted.

The original outgrowing numbers for the model size can be obtained by carefully studying its needs for the trade. The model size used for manufacturing women's garments is size 36. The size 36 shall therefore carry out all its width measurements to be enrolled from its size. The first outgrowing measurement we call the bust, the next measurement is the waist and then the third measurement is the hip. These three measurements are controlled by size 36 only and can be changed at any time wanted regarding style of model, which means if smaller or larger bust, waist and hip wanted for the same size, otherwise, these are the standard methods of how to obtain width measurements. The size of the model shall always be obtained by measuring around the chest and as a rule, this measurement will always be over built with 1½ inches on the figure and therefore use 1½, inches less. If for instance, the chest of the figure measures 37½ inches, use therefore 36 inches only for the actual chest measurement.

The Misses' model size is 16 and measures 34 inches around the chest. This chest measurement is used as a guide number. The bust measurement is developed from the chest. In order to get the bust, add the first number of 34, which is 3 to 34, and it will then make 37 bust measurement. Regarding the waist measurement take ⅓ of 34, which is 11⅓, which leaves 22¾ inches, and this space shall be fulfilled to 23 inches for waist measurement. Regarding hip measurement, add half of size 34 to the 23 waist measurement, which will make 40 hip measurement.

The Juniors' model size is 15 and measures 33 inches around the chest. This Juniors' chest measurement is used for the size guide. The increase of bust for this size is 1 inch less than the Misses' size. The Misses' size increases 3 inches and the Juniors' only 2 inches. This will make for Juniors' size 15, 33 inches chest and 35 inches bust measurement. The waist for this size is 24½ inches. For the hip measurement for this size, add 6 inches to the breast measurement, which is 33 and it will then make 39 inches hip measurement.

The Children's model size is 10 measuring 30 inches around the breast. The waist for this size is 25½ inches, 1 inch more than for the Juniors, as the child of this age is built full in the waist. The hip measurement for this form is very flat, add 4 inches to the breast number which will give you 34 inches hip measurement.

The Infants' model size is 4 and measures 24 inches breast. The waist for this size is 23 inches and hip 30 inches. You will note that the waist measurement for this size is closer to the breast as the waist measurement is entirely full as an infant is, as a rule, built similar to a stout in form. Note carefully the above instructions, which will serve as a good guide for memorizing proportionate measurements for all model sizes.