Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/26

20 MODEL TESTING

In beginning to draft a model pattern for style use, it is proper to test or measure the life model or the figure, which is to be used in making the fitting. It shall therefore be understood that no matter what method is employed or what system of pattern drafting is used, we are to get the exact measurement of body that we are to fit and not to use measurements of table of proportions if we have certain models to be followed.

To obtain measurements for the regular size production for blouse or waist or jacket and coats follow diagram on the opposite page. We first take measurement of the neck at 1, which is useful for button-up neck, especially, when a standing collar is wanted. The second measurement is all around chest, which is taken strictly under the arm, giving us a guide for the exact size of the garment. The third measurement is bust, which is taken all around the body, right under the arm, over the chest part of the bust. The fourth measurement is all around waist, which is to be taken at the hollow part of the waist. The fifth measurement is the hip measurement taken over the fullest part of the hip for about 6 inches below the waist line. The waist and hip measurements as mentioned above can also be used for separate skirts or one-piece dresses.

The following measurements, which are the tight knee measurement, at 6, the calf measurement at 7 and the ankle measurement at 8 are only used for riding breeches or bloomers, and are to be taken tight as shown on the diagram. Additional measurements, which are called back depth and waist length are to be taken at the center back, which is described in the first lesson of drafting with all necessary instructions. The sleeve length shall be taken at the right hand inside seam of the arm as shown on the opposite diagram from 10 to 11. Each and every measurement is to be taken a certain way. The neck, chest and waist measurements are always to be taken snug. The bust and hip measurements are always taken full. The knee, calf and ankle measurements shall be taken tight. A wrist measurement shall be taken at 1 1 and should be taken medium, being neither too tight nor too loose. As a rule, this measurement is to be followed according to style from time to time. Note that this method of taking measurements is not for special use, as other instructions are specially designed for special measurements, which are to be found on pages where special measurements are given.