Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/22

16 THE SYSTEM OF PRACTICAL PROPORTIONS

The system of proportions is divided into two different divisions, which are height and width proportions and these are explained in the front pages of this book, each and everyone separately, but in order to make the system of proportions practical for use, it will be necessary to produce first the measurement of the average or standard height, which is 5 feet 6 inches and also take the regular size number, which is 36 and which will then make the combination of the height and width proportions by which is meant that the size 36 shall have 15½ inches natural waist length. In order to well understand the relationship between the height and width proportions, it is first necessary to understand that 5 feet 6 inches is the average and medium height and size 36 is the average and standard width for the model use. It shall therefore be understood that 5 feet 6 inches is the regular height and size 36 is the regular width for proportionate combinations. In order to have a clearer view on this subject see diagram of each of these methods, which are the systems of height and width proportions or a grammar of proportions or a grammar of garment cutting, which is shown in the very beginning pages fully explaining this subject.

When the connection between height and width proportions are already understood and made, it is necessary to see what shall be the increase of the natural waist length in back for the next size of the very same height. You will find full explanation in the front pages that when increasing 1 inch additional to the height, the waist length in such case, increases ¼ of an inch and the reason you may understand when studying height proportions. But let us now see the difference of how to obtain the waist length or how much shall be increased of the waist length when preparing a size 38 of the same particular height as the 36 model is based on. For instance, if the waist length for size 36 according. 5 feet 6 inches amounts to 15½ inches, increase for the waist length for size 38, ⅛ of an inch for the very same height and remember that when we figure or desire to obtain the waist length according to the height or any other measurement by height, divide the entire height into 8 divisions. We find that when the waist length is obtained according to the height it is proportionately gotten from ¼ of the height and it is to be understood that in case of increasing that height of 1 inch, it is necessary that the ¼ of an inch is additionally increased to the waist length and which then makes the waist length of 5 feet 7 inches, 15¾ inches. When not having the height increased but only the size increased divide the ¼ of an inch between size 36 and size 38 into half, which will make the waist length for size 38 15⅝ inches. It shall be understood that the waist length for the same height and different sizes is not increased for the purpose of increasing the waist length, but is prepared for the development of each larger size for the very same height, or shorter for smaller sizes and to make this clear that everything should be understood look into this matter the following way.

When the total height is increased 1 inch, the waist length is increased ¼ of an inch because the waist length is a production of ¼ of the total height and in such case the ¼ of an inch, which is increased in waist length is equally divided into ⅛ for back depth and ⅛ for under-arm length. When the waist length does not increase in height but for size only, in such case, increase ⅛ for the waist length because the height remains and the ⅛ of an inch is there to increase the back depth which indirectly increases the waist length, thereby, the armhole is made larger or smaller for the smaller sizes.