Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/20

14 THE STUDY ON WIDTH PROPORTIONS There is somehow or other a misunderstanding regarding the importance of width proportions in behalf of the chest, bust, waist and hip measurements for women's garments. The majority fail to think of this great importance and this is why the question of the standard measurement for bust, waist and hip was never answered. The bust measurement especially, was a misunderstood question.

It often happens that a bust measurement is not known, or if it is known, it is not known how much the bust should be for a 36 size or how the bust should be increased for the size wanted and so it happens with all other width measurements, such as waist and hip. I have therefore prepared a practical outline shown on the opposite page for simplifying this method by clearly showing and explaining how to make and test such measurements for yourself. To control these width proportions have patience and read carefully the further instructions. See diagram on opposite page.

To begin showing the operations of the width division, draw a line from A to B. This is ⅓ of 36 amounting to 12 inches. C is half of A and B. Now make a circle by C to meet A and B and this circle will measure 36 inches representing size of chest measurement. Then draw a line from C to D and this space measure also 12 inches or ⅓ of 36. Now connect lines from A to D and from B to D and measure for bust from A, B and D and up to A. This will give bust measurement 39 inches. Now divide between A and C, which makes E and between C and B, which makes F and connect with lines to D. Measure these lines from F to D and E to D. This will give waist measurement. 25 inches. For hip measurement make from C to D ⅓, which is from C to G and measure from C to G. From A, B, D and A will give hip measurement, 43 inches. These width measurements are the standard proportional measurements for size 36, which will serve in the future for knowing if an increase or decrease is made in the change of width proportions.

The above mentioned instruction of how to produce width proportions, is only to prove how such proportions are produced, which is also shown and described with a diagram to make things clearly understood. It shall be well understood and well memorized of how much space there is from the chest or size to bust measurement, from bust to waist and waist to hip and it shall be clearly understood that the use of these are to a great extent necessary in knowing the changes of measurements made, from time to time. These instructions, which are produced on diagram on the opposite page may be followed for all proportional sizes, which are as follows: sizes 36, 38 and 40. We do not include 42 and 44 because these two sizes are forming to somewhat stoutness of which the waist measurement may be increased in width. Changes on width proportions for either size are only made in order to build the model of fashion for each season and such measurements can be had by the author of this book, free of charge.