Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/18

12 HOW TO SIMPLIFY THE PROPORTIONAL HEIGHTS

The proportional and automatic table of sizes on the opposite page gives the length for back depth, under-arm, natural waist length and skirt length, ranging from 5 to 6 feet and is arranged to correspond with the width of breast from 32 to 48 inches and it can be easily calculated to any size. The first number in each small box on the opposite table of proportions is the natural waist length, the second number is the back depth and the third number is the under-arm length. On the bottom of this table of proportions we have the proportional skirt length for any height wanted. The sides and back lengths arc to be followed according to the style of length for skirts, which may be indicated by the all around hip measurement from time to time. Therefore, if the style of hip is large or small, the side and back lengths may be increased or decreased in length. The complete length is placed under the height number and it gives the length of the front skirt. This table gives 147 different sizes and many more combinations, which are valuable and simplifies the method of obtaining correct measurements. In applying it in practical use, we give the following examples, which will make it clear and easily understood.

Suppose we have a person measuring 36 breast and whose height is 5 feet 6 inches and we want to find the proportional measurements used for drafting. First look for the breast size 36 on the left side of the opposite table and on top of that table the height of 5 feet 6 inches. Now find size 36 squaring with a straight line to 5 feet 6 inches and we find in the little box space 15½ inches natural waist length, 7 inches back depth and 8½ inches under-arm length. For instance, let us take another example, size 42 and 5 feet 10 inches in height. First look below 5 feet 10 inches and then opposite size 42 and we find there the length of waist 16⅞ a inches, 7⅞ inches back depth and 9 inches under-arm length. In the same way we find each and every size for use.

In drafting proportionate garments apply the sizes found on the scale or table of proportions and when the height increases or decreases find the proper size. This can be easily found because it is seldom necessary to try more than two sizes. The manner of using the table for short or tall persons is the same as for the regular form. By using the table of proportions in the manner explained, any size corresponding to the form can be easily found and it is therefore valuable not only for the regular height, but also for the tall and short forms.