Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/172

236 MISSES' SINGLE-BREASTED TIGHT FITTING FRENCH SEAM JACKET

LESSON NO. 109

The single-breasted tight-fitting french seam jacket for misses' sizes is drafted on the same principles as size 36 with the exception of its measurements, but the rules are to be followed as for size 36. To begin therefore, make the entire foundation lines for the misses' size and then continue as follows:

Now begin the back part of the french seam jacket. From R to Z is $1/undefined$ of size amounting to 2⅞ inches for size 16 according to chest 34 and from S to X 1 inch less, which amounts to 1⅞ inches. From X to 3 is 1 inch taken out and from Z to 2 is J 4 of an inch lapping over the side body to the back. Before continuing allow from M to 34, 3 4 of an inch all the way down, as shown on the diagram, and then divide between L to 34, which makes 33 and draw a line from 33 to X and a curved line again for the side body from 33 to 46 down to 3 and connect 3 to 2 and X to Z.

Now complete the entire side body belonging towards the back and in order to continue with the same, allow from G to N and E to 13. r'4 of an inch. Now draw a line from N to 13 and then divide between H and N, which makes 6 and between 3 and 4, which makes 7 and then draw a line from 6 and 7 down to 8. From 6 to S ."raw a line up 1 inch. On the waist line each side of 7 to 9 and 10 take out ¾ inches and on the hip line each side of 8 to 11 and 12 allow ¾ inches and connect 9 to 12 and 10 to 11 and also connect both sides of 9 and 10 up to 6 lost to 5. From 13 to 15 allow '4 of an inch and this will complete the back space with the side body

Then continue the front part. From 4 to 14 take out 1 inch and at N towards the front take out ¼ of an inch. From E to 16 allow ¾of an inch and then connect with a line from 16 to 14 and 14 to N. Now prepare the dart in front as usual for the tight-fitting garments and divide the space over the chest from F to 1 of which half makes 23 and apply the same on the straight waist line from 19 into the dart line in front and then measure or make the long waist line from 18 to 20, 2 inches and connect from 14 to 20 out to 21 for the long waist line and remember that for tight-fitting garments we allow in front from 18 to 19 always 1½ inches 26 is at the center dart line connected with the long waist line and then take out for the dart between 26 and 27, 1 inch and from 25 to 28, 1 inches and between 26 and 29, 3 inches and then connect all the lines for the dart from 30 to 27 down to 29 and from 30 to 29 down to 31 and square a line from 27 to 31 down with a square line to 32.

To prepare the french seam in front divide the shoulder as usual from V to O, which makes 35. From 35 to each side to 37 and 38 allow ⅜ inches, which will equal ¾ of an inch which is allowed to the back and then connect a line from 38 to 30, which will finish the outer part of the front and then draw a parallel line from 37 to 47, which should be lost with a curve to 30 down to 29, 31 and 32 and this will complete the french scam in front. Always take care that the space between 27 to 28 and 31 to 32 shall always be one length. The button stand and collar for this tight-fitting jacket is exactly the same for misses' size 16 as for women's size 36.