Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/170

234 MISSES' HALF-FITTING JACKET WITH FRENCH SEAMS

LESSON NO. 108

To begin this jacket first prepare the first foundation of the misses' size 16 and continue with the similar actions as the first half-fitting jacket.

To begin the back note that the traced lines at the back at 71 and 17 are showing how to work this back without center back seam and measure at the hip line from 4 to 14, 1½ inches and at the waist line from 3 into the brake line of the back 2 inches as a rule, and draw a line up to the neck point from the waist line to 1 and down from the waist line against 14 down to 17. To begin the back without a seam, deduct at the back neck from 1 to 71, ⅜ of an inch for a seam and connect with a straight line down to 17 and then measure on the waist line from 72 to 73, $1/undefined$ of size, which amounts to 2⅞ inches for this size 16 and measure on the hip line from 14 to 16, 1 inch more which will amount to 3⅞ inches. Then draw a line from 73 against 16 down to the bottom line 18 and from 73 draw a line up to 10. The space between 10 and 20 is about 1½ inches and connect 72, to 10 and continue with the side body. From 73 to 15 is ¾ of an inch increased when we wish to have a seam back and the same changes then have to be made from the center back, which is at 72 to the inner body line and if this change is made from 73 to 15, increase ½ inch from 22 to 16 and connect down to 18, as usual.

Now continue the side body; from 15 to 21 is ¾ of an inch, from 16 to 22 is ½ inch. Now connect 21 to 22 down to 23 and 21 against 8 up to 10 where it will combine with the back french seam. The space from 19 to 20 is ¾ an inch and this is allowed for a french seam. From 6 to 24 and 7 to 25 take out ¾ inches as for all h::l.'"-fitting jackets. From 27 to 28 also take out ¾ of an inch as usual.

Now begin the front part and at the hip allow ¾ inches which is from 7 to 44 and 25 to 43. Prepare the dart as usual and then continue with the french seam in front. In continuing, it is necessary to measure the space from 12 to 10 and apply the same at the front from 32 to 62 and connect with a line from 62 to 47, which is the height of the dart in front and then measure the space at the back from 10 to 20 and apply the same from 61 to 63 and connect 63 to 47. Now note that there is about ¾ of an inch space between 62 and 63 at the front shoulder, the same as there is specially allowed at the back from 19 to 20. Make curves at the front from 62 lost down to 49, which will complete the french seam at the outside part of the front and to curve the inner part of the front, begin from 63 lost, as shown on the diagram, at 47 down to 51 and 58.

The shawl collar for this jacket is showing a long shawl opening. The opening is rested on the straight waist line and as this is a single-breasted half-fitting jacket, allow for the button stand from 39 to 40, 1½ inches and draw a collar stand line from 40 against 64 out to 65 and remember that the space between 32 and 64 is always 1 inch for the collar stand and the same between 65 and 66. From 64 to 65 is always $1/undefined$ of size and, ½ inch, which amounts to altogether for this size 2⅞ inches and a ½ inch for seam. Curve the neck from 32 to 33 straight out to 68 and connect a line from 68 to 40 to finish the lapel and then measure the collar width from 65 to 67, 3 inches and curve the space from 67 to 68 which will then finish the shawl collar. The space from 68 to 69 is a trimming, which may be produced of braids or any other material.

To make the front cut-a-way a trifle, as this diagram represents, draw a line from 40 to 37. You will note that 37 is a straight front line. Now curve from 40 to 57 and see that the space from 49 to 57 and 51 to 58 shall always be one length.