Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/168

232 MISSES' HALF-FITTING JACKET WITH MENNA FRONT---SIZE 16

LESSON NO. 107

To begin this jacket prepare first the foundation of size 16 as usual and as soon as we draw the foundation lines to the waist line, continue making the hip line, which is ⅓ of size between C and D amounting to 5¾ inches for size 16 according to chest 34 and then draw the hip line. Now remember that by the foundation we mean that all the lines are complete and also the seams are allowed in front as usual.

In continuing to draft the half-fitting jacket, divide the space between H and I, which makes 4. Then place a ruler from J against 4 reaching all the way down to the hip line and then draw a line from 4 to 5 and, at the same time, make a mark on the hip at 6. From 6 to 7 allow ¾ of an inch and connect from 5 to 7. Then divide the space between J and I and take half between J and I, which makes 1. From 1 to 2 lower 1 inch and then draw a line out from 2 to 3 and curve from 3. Then continue the curve between the half space of 4 and I and curve down to 5. which is at the waist line. This completes the back part.

Now continue in making the side body, measure from 5 to 8, ¾ of an inch and connect with a line from 8 to 6 and from 8 draw a line up against the back curve between 4 and I and then curve again for the side body from 3 against the curve between 4 and I down to 8. which is at the waist line. Remember that at point 3 raise about ¾ of an inch forwarding ½ inch for seam towards the armhole, which will prepare the curve for the armhole. To finish the side body towards the front, take from G and 11, 9 and 10 and F to 12, ¾ inches and then draw a line. Allow from F to 15, ¾ of an inch and connect from 10 to 15, which will complete the hip of the side body and the inside seam of the side body will begin from 11 down to 10 and 10 to 15. If a smaller hip is desired at the side body make a line instead of from 10 to 15, from 10 to F.

To continue the front part, take out from 9 to 13, ¾ of an inch and allow from 12 to 14 also ¾ of an inch. Now connect 14 to 13 and 13 to G, which completes the side seam of the front. Allow from Z to 16, the front of the waist line ¾ of an inch, which is the extension for the dart and draw a line from to 16 down to 18. From Z to 17 make 2 inches and draw a line from 13 out to 17, which makes the long waist line in front and measure from 13 to 14 and 19 to 18, 6 inches for the hip space in front and prepare the dart. Take half for the dart line between N and X, which makes 20. Measure the space from 20 to X and place the same on the waist line from 16 to 21 and draw a line down from 20 against 21 down to 22. Now divide the space between 20 and 21 making ... which is the beginning point of the dart and take out the amount for the dart at the long waist line. 23 is the center on the long waist line and from 23 to 24 take out ½ inch and from 23 to 25 take out 1½ inches. From 22 to 27 is ½ of an inch and draw lines from AA to 24 down to 27 and from AA to 26 down to 28 and then square a line by 24 to 26 down to 28. Remember that the space between 24 and 27 and 26 and 28 should be alike and then make all curves.

To prepare the Vienna front raise from N to BB 1½ inches and curve from BB to AA. This curve belongs to the outside part of the front and in order to make the curve for the inner part of the front, allow from BB to CC, ¾ of an inch and curve parallel from CC to 20 down to AA where the dart is and then continue down to 25 and 28. This will complete the vienna front with all seams allowed. Now allow for the button stand 1½ inches and prepare the collar as always and make all curves as shown on the diagram.