Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/166

230 MISSES' BLOUSE -SIZE 16

LESSON NO. 106 This lesson will complete the first foundation in the form of a misses' blouse and to continue it is therefore necessary to be well acquainted with the first outlines and measurements. To continue, divide the armhole space between H to M, which makes A A and draw a line down to BB and take out on both sides of AA ¾ of an inch to E and EE, and on both sides of BB to CC and DD take out 1½ inches and connect lines from EE to CG and E to DD which completes the side seam of the front and back.

Now finish the bottom of the blouse and allow from W to X, 2 inches and connect with a line from DD to X out to Y. From Y to Z is about 1 inch up and now allow below CC and DD, ½ inch and finish the bottom of the back from II, ½ inch below CC, and the bottom of the front begin to curve a ½ inch below DD to X up to Z.

Now make all curves; deduct ¼ of each shoulder point at L and T and curve from L to K and from T to P. Now continue in curving the armhole from L to EE, which completes the armhole of the back and from T to E make a curve of the armhole in front and curve, at the same time, from A to K the bark neck and from P to R the front neck. Note that the misses' blouse size 16 is now complete and all there is to be remembered regarding its proportional measurements is that in the beginning of the foundation, we are to use the different spaces of proportions suitable for 34 inches chest, but the inch spaces for all actions remains the same as for women's sizes with the exception of the back depth and waist length.

Now cut out the pattern as it is all ready for use with all necessary seams allowed and begin to cut out the back first. Remember that before cutting if no seam is desired on the center back, you may deduct ⅜ of an inch for a seam all the way down from A to II and continue cutting out then from A to K, K to L, L to EE, EE to CC, CC to II up to A. This completes the cutting out of the back. Now continue cutting out the front and you may deduct a seam in front from R to Z if you do not want a seam and deduct the same amount, in such case, as you deduct in the center back and therefore begin to cut out from T to P, P to R, R to Z, Z to X and DD up to E. Then cut out the armhole of the front from T to E, as shown on the diagram. This completes how to cut out the entire blouse pattern, which consists of front and back.