Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/163

227 THE PROBLEM OF MISSES' SIZES ---Continued When preparing the model size for misses, size 16 is the most practical one for use, which is the middle size between 14 and 18 and therefore size 16 serves the same purpose for misses as the 36 for women. In drafting, we use size 16 only as a guide and we use 34 as the actual chest measurement by which all details of the pattern is drafted as the size 36 used for the women's sizes. In addition to the chest, we use 39 bust for completing the fullest part of the bust. It shall be understood that the 34 chest measurement for size 16 is by no means a size 34 because the additional measurements for size 16 are a great deal different from the 34 woman's size. It would be advisable that the measurements for size 16 should be carefully compared with the measurements of size 34, which will serve for a most practical outline in the future.

When the foundation draft is prepared for the misses' size, it is to be used for all kinds of garments without any exception, which means that the foundation draft is the same for all kinds of blouses, waists, jackets, coats and capes. The sleeve foundation is also prepared the same way with the exception of various changes to suit the shape of the various different garments as mentioned above.

When foundation patterns are complete according to the rules as mentioned above, they can be positively used in the same manner as a size 36 pattern for the various styles desired to be carried out for misses' sizes with the understanding that the size 16 misses' pattern is used for such, which means that the habits of the two foundation patterns, which are the size 16 for misses or 36 for women are about alike in shape with the exception of measurements. The carrying out details for styles shall therefore be for both alike. When completing styles when measurements for neck are to be used or cuff measurements are to be used, see the difference between the misses' size 16 and the women's size 36 and by no means follow such measurements according to size 34. which may conflict with the proper completing of the style suitable for misses' sizes.