Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/16

10 THE STUDY OF HEIGHT PROPORTIONS In order to simplify the method of height proportions watch diagram on opposite page, which will fully describe the method of height proportions. Having the total height of a figure measuring 5 feet 6 inches, which amounts to 66 inches draw a straight line of this total height A and B and square a line on top from A to C and there measure ½ of the length amounting to 33 inches. Before going any further immediately figure out ⅛ a of the total height which amounts to 8¼ inches for this particular height and measure from A to J ⅛ of height, J to 1 ⅛ of height and also from I to E ⅛ of height, which will make ⅜ of height used at point E and draw a line across from E to F, which will indicate the space from the top of head to the natural waist line and it will be understood that the balance which is from E to B will be the straight full length of skirt. Now take ⅓ of the space from A to E and this will make J which is the head space. Then take 1 inch below J which makes K and divide the space from K to E, which makes I and raise up ¾ of an inch to make L. Now make clear these spaces to yourself as follows:

The space from A to J is the head space. From J to K is 1 inch for collar stand. From K to E is the natural waist length and in order to divide the waist length for back depth and under-arm length, figure the back depth from K to L and the under-arm length from L to E. Note that the lines at K, L and E are drawn into the figure. It shall be understood that the natural waist length for this height is 15½ inches, back depth 7 inches and under-arm length 8½ inches. From A to C is ½ the total height. Now draw a line from C to B and cross a line from E to F. Divide the space from E to F which makes G and sweep or curve from G to H. This will make the space from E to H 10½ inches for the full hip length In order to continue divide the space from H to B which makes M. From M to N raise up 2 inches which will give the proper point for the knee. The total space between E and B gives the full length of the skirt as mentioned above. This will finish the entire height of the body and it shall not make any difference whatever the height may be, shorter or taller, the very same method of dividing shall be used.

The size may be connectable to any height as the height is regulated by its own length according the divisions given in this problem, or the table elsewhere given in this work. When the height increases, the length of the natural waist in front and back also increases in the same manner. The scale which is given includes the allowances needed in drafting. To make the system of proportions perfectly clear and easy to use for the student, a table of sizes is prepared which will quickly assist in obtaining results of these measurements It is to be understood that this method is only used for women's or misses' sizes. For junior's, children's and infants' garments follow the same method of dividing the height for the natural waist length. These 3 different models differ greatly in the preparation of the back depth because they do not wear any tight corsets and therefore the change is made between the socket bone and the waist line which calls for the back depth.

For children's sizes for instance, take size 10 for which the waist length is about 13 inches. Divide these 13 inches which will make 6½ inches and take off only ¼ of an inch from 6½inches, which will leave 6¾4 inches for back depth and for under arm length 6¾ inches. The reason these changes are made in the different sizes is to lengthen the deepness of the back length which is needed for this size regarding the good-fitting garment.

For infants' sizes for which the model size is 4 and the waist length is 10 inches, in this case, divide the waist length in half and use 5 inches for the back depth end 5 inches for under-arm length which means an equal division. In order to prepare the back depth, divide the waist line. For instance for junior's size LS, which amounts to 14¼ inches take ½ of this which makes 7⅛ inches and take off a ½ inch from 7⅛ inches making 6⅝ inches for back depth. Now add a ½ inch which you have taken off from 7⅛ inches and add it to the lower half of 7⅛ which will make the under-arm length 7⅜, inches.