Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/158

152 ONE-PIECE SLEEVE ON TOP OF ARMHOLE

LESSON NO. 68

This lesson shows how to draft a one piece sleeve in connection with the armhole and to begin prepare the entire foundation of the jacket, coat or blouse. It shall be understood that the garment has to be drafted with a center underarm seam. Complete the foundation as usual and if a deep armhole is wanted, specify the space of such deepness, which is showing on this diagram from AA to FF and from BB to EE and cross this line from EE to FF, which will meet the curve at the armhole at W and Y. When the bottom of this armhole is complete, curve the deep armhole from M to W and from U to Y, which will complete the entire deep armhole. Now begin to divide for the center underarm seam and no matter what it may be, a jacket or a blouse this rule follows the same action. Divide from I to F, which is the entire space of the armhole, which will bring 5 and take out both sides of 5 to 3 and G, -U inches and draw a line down to suit the style of the garment It shall be understood that this is a box coat; the lines drawn for the front and back side seam are followed according to the instruction of a box coat, which is followed according to the hipmeasurement shown in the following pages. I fit is a blouse.it shows the different operations of how to produce it for the waist action to suit the waist measurement for a blouse, which is also shown in the following peges.

To begin the one-piece sleeve for this armhole measure from I to AA and F to BB, ¼ of the size, which amounts to 4½ inches for size 36 and draw a line up from AA to CG all the way down to N and the same way draw a line up from BB to DD and all the way down to HH. Then measure from AA to GG and from BB to DD, ¼ of size, which amounts to 4½ inches for size 36 and connect a line from CC to DD, which makes the top line of the sleeve. The entire upper part of this sleeve, which meets the space of this armhole is from FF to CC and EE to DD and the measurement for producing this upper part sleeve shall always be measured from AA to CC and BB to DD. which will amount to ¼ of size for any size you wish or whatever size the original draft of the garment may be. Now curve the top parts of the sleeve in connection to the armhole at the back from CC to W and at the front from DD to Y. This completes the center armhole curve of the entire sleeve.

The bottom of this sleeve is finished by drawing a straight line across from II to HH and to complete the bottom of sleeve to a certain measurement needed for the width of cuff, measure the space from II to HH, For instance, this space amounts to about 18 inches, we need to decide how much about we wish to have remain for the measurement of the cuff. For instance, we wish to have about 13 inches for the width of sleeve at the bottom when finished, allow an additional inch for seams, which will amount to 14 inches including seams As this space amounts to 18 inches, deduct 4 inches, which is an over-built space. Divide the entire space including seams, which is half of 14 which amounts to 7 inches and take from II to KK. 7 inches and HH to JJ also 7 inches. Then draw a curved line up from KK to W and JJ to Y. To finish the bottom of the sleeve entirely allow from II to LL and HH to MM about 1 inch and connect with a curved line from LL to KK and MM to J J. This will complete the entire one-piece sleeve connected to a deep armhole.

It shall be understood that this deep armhole and one-piece sleeve explanation shall be worked the same way to any garment, if it is a garment consisting of two pieces, which is front and back with an equal divided armhole and an under-arm seam. Notice that this diagram is also showing a certain style of coat of which the style of the garment is showing on a small sketch placed in the center of the diagram, a set-in sleeve with a deep armhole, which this entire diagram is showing The dotted lines on this diagram are showing how to make this coat a cutaway front. This completes this diagram.