Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/156

150 SLEEVE IN SPACE OF ARMHOLE

LESSON NO. 67

This draft is showing how to draft a two-piece sleeve in the space of the armhole of any garment drafted, before such draft is cut out. It shall be well understood that no matter what style or size, if such garment is cut by proportionate or special measurement, this action is always the same and all curves for all parts including the armhole of this draft should be made before beginning this sleeve draft.

To begin the sleeve draft draw a straight line for the inside sleeve length from T to Z and measure any length of sleeve; for size 36 measure 18 inches which is the proportionate length for the inside sleeve length and at the very same time figure that this foundation draft is also to be size 36 and therefore shall also craft the size 36 sleeve. New measure from T to 2⅓ of size, which amounts to 6 inches. Draw a line down fiom K to 4, whichis 18 inches for inside sleeve length and from K to 3 is also ⅓ of size, which amounts to 6 inches. It shall be understood that the point K is the half space of B and L which is half of the back space and craw a line from 2 to 3 and measure from T to 6½ inches and from K to 5, 3 inches. Now cross a line from 5 to 6 and divide this line which makes 7 and drawn square line do from 7 to 8 and divide it which makes 9. With 9 we make a circle from 6 to 5 or 5 to 6, which makes the curve of the top sleeve.

Now begin to build the inside part of sleeve and allow both sides of T to 17 and 18, ½ inches The elbow of the sleeve is followed by the waist line and you will notice when you look after this matter that the elbow always reaches the waist line for every human body if built proportionately. We use this waist line as elbow line, which makes 15 for the top sleeve and from 15 to 16 is 1 inch, which makes the inside part of the under sleeve. 19 is the elbow of the top sleeve and from 19 to 21 is 2½ inches, which makes the elbow for the under sleeve. Now divide the bottom space from 4 to Z, which makes 10 and 10 to 11 is 2 inches. From 11 draw a line against Z and measure from Z to 13, 1 inch and from 13 to 14 also 1 inch. From Z to 12 draw a straight line out and measure 1 inch and allow the space from 20 to 24 as given from 13 to 12, which is about ⅜ of an inch. From 7 to 22 is 1 inch, which increases the armhole of the under sleeve and from 22 to 23 raise up ¾ of an inch. At 23 raise for seams space ⅜ of an inch and curve as shown passing 7 to 18 and finish the top sleeve curve in the front from 6 to 17. Now make connections as shown on the diagram from 17 to 15 and 14 and from 18 to 16 down to 13 and 12 This completes the inside part of the sleeve and the outside part of the sleeve connects from 5 to 19 down to 11 and from 23 to 21 down to 24. This completes the sleeve draft in the space of the armhole.

It shall be understood that in order to make this draft in the armhole we need the acquaintance of the original separate sleeve craft and also the acquaintance of a separate draft of a blouse or a jacket. This sleeve consists of two parts, top sleeve and under sleeve.