Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/154

148 RAGLAN SLEEVE WITH A DART IN SHOULDER LESSON NO. 66 The raglan sleeve with a dart in shoulder is begun the same way as the first raglan sleeve with the exception that when the space between 1 and 5 is divided, which makes 26, draw a line up to 26 and 27 and there measure the width of shoulder, which is about 6 inches for size 36 and cross a line at 27 and take out both sides of 27 to 28 and 29, ½ inches to each side and draw a line up from 28 to 30 and from 29 to 31 as shown on the diagram. These bias lines shall be extended upwards ½ inches at 30 and 31 and then connect a line as shown on the diagram from 30 to 10 and 31 to 9. Now make curves from 28 and 29 lost to 26, which makes the dart for this sleeve on shoulder. Now continue in making the split for the seams all the way down the top sleeve and in doing so, divide the top sleeve at the elbow from 3 to 7, which makes 8 and divide also the top sleeve at the bottom from 15 to 18, which makes 2. Now connect with a curved line from 2 to 8 up to 26 lost to 28 and 29 as shown on the diagram.

Great care should be taken that all these lines should be curved with a round stick so that the seams will be formed according to the shape of the entire top sleeve. It should also be remembered that when cutting apart this top sleeve, the seams shall be allowed to both sides of 2, 8, 26, 28 and 29 as there is no special amount allowed for it when drafting the sleeve as this action is not necessary. It shall also be remembered that all other seams for this draft are all allowed in drafting according to this system.

Remember when setting in the sleeve in the armhole of the raglan coat, we need to have the top of the sleeve a great deal larger than the armhole of the coat is, especially, in the front, because the more we give in for the sleeve towards the front of armhole the better the fitting of such sleeve will be.