Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/152

146 RAGLAN SLEEVE

LESSON NO. 65

To begin the raglan sleeve, we first need to prepare the draft of the first sleeve draft without fullness and when such is complete, we begin to make the changes for the raglan sleeve as follows:

In beginning the top raglan sleeve, divide the upper part of the completed draft from 1 to 5 which will make 26 and from 26 draw a line up to 27 and measure from 26 and 27 the width of shoulder, which is 6 inches for size 36 and then draw a bias line to 28 and make the space from 27 to 28, ¾ of an inch. Now connect with a line from 28 to 10 and from 27 to 9. This Will complete the outline of the raglan sleeve. You will note that when these lines are finished, we need some curving as shown on the diagram. You will also note that towards the front part of the top sleeve we curve a small amount out at the line where we begin at 28 and when we curve towards the lower part of the top sleeve around 10, we allow a small amount of ¼ inch lost at 10 to 24. Towards the back part of the raglan sleeve, we take a small amount out and begin at 27 and allow about ⅛ of an inch when finishing the curve at 9. The curve at 9 when finished shall remain sharp pointed so as to have a guide where the outside length of the sleeve begins or where the curving from 27 to 9 finishes.

The under sleeve for the raglan sleeve is to remain the same as always and no changes are to be made at the under sleeve. When cutting out the raglan sleeve act the same way as when cutting out any other sleeve. Place another sheet of paper under the draft and cut around the top sleeve first and when having it cut out let the duplicate of the blank sheet, which is placed underneath the draft to serve as the top sleeve and from the original draft, which is the upper sheet, cut out the under sleeve as usual and make notches also as explained in the first draft.