Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/150

144 ONE-PIECE TIGHT-FITTING SLEEVE

LESSON NO. 64

To begin this sleeve cut out the original or the first sleeve without fullness and mark out the top sleeve on a sheet of paper as shown on the diagram from A, C, W, D, B, S to A. Now connect the under sleeve on the top part at G and E. From C to E and W to F is ¼ of an inch space lapped over as no seam is wanted there. When the under sleeve is connected mark all around from E, C, G, H, I, F to E and now mark the connection. Curve on the top from A, K. M to G and when curving make changes as follows: From J to K is 1 inch decreased for fullness of the top sleeve and from L to M is 1 inch increased for the under sleeve. This completes the curve for the sleeve on top. Now lock over the sleeves carefully after the top and under sleeves are connected. As the sleeve is now marked out, it is useful for a dart on the outside elbow as shown from D to X and I to X.

For a tight-fitting one-piece sleeve cross a line from the bottom at both inside lengths B to H, cross a line from E to F down to N, measure both sides for the size of cuff as much as desired on both sides from N. The cuff shall measure ¼ of the size of 9 inches for a size 36 and allow 1 inch more to the width of cuff for seams which makes 10 inches for this cuff. Now make from N to O 5 inches, also from N to P. This makes a straight cuff from O to P, and when a lap over is wanted on the top of sleeve, divide N and O, which makes Q and from Q to R is 2 inches. Curve from O to R, R to P and shape both sides of the inside sleeve; from T to U is ½ inch and from S to V is also ½ inch and curve as shown on the diagram from A and V to O and from G and U to P. This completes the two kinds of sleeves useful for ail kinds of garments.

To cut out the dart sleeve follow A, S, B, D, X, I, H, T, G, M, K to A. To cut out the tight-fitting sleeve follow A. V, O, R, P. U, G, M, K to A. If a wider cuff is desired for a one-piece tight-fitting sleeve, divide equally the amount in half of such amount and allow half from N to O and the other half N to P. For instance if a 12 inch cuff is wanted allow 1 inch more for seam which is 13 and allow from N to O, 6½ inches and N to P also 6½ inches, which will make this complete 13. This completes this diagram.