Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/149

143 ONE-PIECE SLEEVE WITH FULLNESS ON THE TOP

LESSON NO. 63

To begin this sleeve, cut out the first top and under sleeve and mark out the top sleeve from A to B, D, C, I, J to A. Now connect the under sleeve at the bottom to the top sleeve at F to D and E, as shown on the diagram. Then mark all around the under sleeve to G and H down to F. When both sleeves are marked out, begin to make the top curve from A, K, I and L to G. From J to K is 1 inch and from H to L is also 1 inch. From J to K decrease the fullness of the top sleeve and from H to L increase the fullness of the under sleeve To cut out begin from A to K, I, L, G, E,F,D, B and A. This completes the one piece sleeve with fullness on top.

The fullness of the sleeve might be used in many different ways. The first change that we can make out of this foundation is changing it to a sleeve with several darts on top if desired, which will serve for the sleeve of cutout darts at top instead of gathering or pleating. The next use we can make out of this sleeve is shirring in the top to the measurement of the armhole of the garment so that the sleeve will show a globe effect when set in the armhole No doubt that all these actions of sleeves are a style production and these changes are therefore the most handy ones that might be used from time to time.