Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/148

142 ONE-PIECE SLEEVE WITH FULLNESS ON THE BOTTOM

LESSON NO. 62

To begin this one-piece sleeve use a cut out pattern of the first sleeve. Mark out first the top sleeve from A to J, C, N, D, B to A. Now connect the under sleeve at C and from C to E and N to F lap over ¾ of an inch, which is deducted for having no seam at the outside of the sleeve. N and E is the elbow. Mark out the under sleeve all around, as shown on the diagram, from E to F, I,H,G, Land E.

Now curve the bottom of the sleeve from B to D and I and H. The bottom of this sleeve gives a full effect cuff. Now curve the top of the sleeve from A to K and M to G. From J to K is 1 inch decreased from the top sleeve and from L to M is 1 inch increased for the under sleeve. This makes the one-piece sleeve with fullness on the bottom. There are several styles of sleeves which can be taken out of this one-piece foundation as for instance, if we desire to have the sleeve with fullness on bottom, this sleeve will answer the purpose as this sleeve is full on the bottom and is ready for gathering around the cuff. Should a dart be desired from the wrist to the elbow, in this case all we need to do is to cut out the open space which is between the top and under sleeve between D and I lost to the elbow. At the very same time, if we desire to have a smaller amount of dart to be taken out, it can also be done by measuring over the entire amount end specifying or occupying a certain measurement for the width of cuff. Now for instance if a 12 inch cuff is desired, we need to measure the entire space between D and H and if we find there 18 inches, we allow 1 inch for seams and therefore we use the balance of 17 inches and if the 12 inch cuff is desired deduct the same of 17, which leaves 5 inches o er for taking out for such dart. For further instruction, see next lesson.