Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/146

140 SLEEVE WITH DIRECT FULLNESS

LESSON NO. 61

This sleeve begins the same way as the first sleeve with the exception that this sleeve gives the increase of fullness in drafting. To begin, measure from A to B ⅓ of size or 6 inches for size 36 and from B to D is 18 inches for the inside sleeve length. Cross all lines from A to F, B to S, E to H and D to I and measure from A to F ⅔ of size or 12 inches for size 36. Now draw a line from F to I; from G to V is 1½ inches; C is half of A and B and cross a line from C to V. Take half of C and V, which makes Y and square a line down from Y to make U and half of Y and U is the star (*); from G to S and to W is a half inch to each side. H to N is 1 inch for the inside elbow curve. To begin the width of cuff or bottom of sleeve divide the bottom line from D to I, which makes J and draw a line down to K. From J to K is 2 inches and cross a line from K against 1 out to P. From I to O is 1 inch and O to P is also 1 inch.

Now begin the outside elbow from E to X is 2 inches, X to M is 3 inches, K to L is 2 inches and now cross lines from K to X and up to C, this is the outside of the top sleeve, Now cross lines from L to M up to T, this is the outside of the inside sleeve. From Y to T is ¾ of an inch. Now allow from L to R a half inch and from O to Q is also a half inch and cross a line from R to Q, which finishes the under sleeve. Now cross lines for the inside elbow from Q to N and P to N; also from W to N and S to N. If all these connections are made to N, this action brings a strong brake of the inside elbow. If a straighter sleeve is wanted, do not draw the outside seam for the top sleeve to N but only to H, which means S to H and from H to P for the top sleeve and the under sleeve shall be made from W to N down to Q.

Now curve the top sleeve by the star (*) from V to C and shape from A to S to the inside elbow N and also curve the under sleeve at the armhole from T to W, as shown on the diagram. To cut out this sleeve place another sheet of paper underneath the draft and cut all around the top sleeve. After having cut out the top sleeve use the bottom pattern as the top sleeve and cut out from the original craft the under sleeve. You will notice on the diagram that there is two ways of curving the inside seam of this sleeve, more broken elbow or straighter towards the inside part of this sleeve. It is shown in order that you may use it for your own taste.