Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/144

138 HOW TO FINISH SLEEVE WITHOUT FULLNESS

LESSON NO. 60

In order to complete the first lesson, continue as follows: Divide the space at the bottom line from 4 to 8, which makes 14. From 14 to 15 is 2 inches and from 15 draw a line against 8 out to 17 and 18 allowing from 8 to 17, 1 inch and from 17 to 18 also 1 inch. Now allow from 7 to 19, 1 inch which is at the inside part of the elbow and connect 17 to 19 and 18 to 7 and allow from 6 to 23 and 6 to 24, ½ inch to both sides and then connect 7 to 24 and 19 to 23, which will complete the inside part of the top and under sleeve Now finish the outside part of under sleeve, which is the outside elbow and connect 15 with a straight line to 3. Measure from 15 to 16, 1½ inches and from 3 to 22, 2½ inches and connect with a straight line from 16 to 22 and from 22 against 25 and from 11 to 25 is 1 inch and up ¾ of an inch which will complete the outside part of the under sleeve. The outside part of the top sleeve is from 9 to 3 down to 15.

To make the curves for the entire sleeve, as a rule, we first make the top curves of the sleeve which are as follows: To continue first making the top sleeve curves, make a sweep curve with a tape or a piece of string from to 9 or from 9 to and sweep by 13 and then finish with a small curve from to 24, which will complete the top curve of the top sleeve. Now finish the top curve of the under sleeve. Remember that at 25 we raise up with a straight line ¾ of an inch and headway for about ½ inch for the seams and then curve free hand down against 11 down to 23. This will complete the upper curve of the under sleeve. When having the upper parts all finished curve the brake at the inside elbow 19 and 7 and at the outside elbow, at 3 and 22, curve off a small amount in order not to have the elbow too curvy. In order to finish the sleeve, watch the diagram and you will note that the under sleeve is somewhat longer and you will also note that the under sleeve is lengthened by the straight line, which is drawn out from 4 to 8, which will bring the sleeve from about ½ inch longer for the top sleeve, which is below 17 and below 16 and connect with a parallel line from 16 to 17 according to the top sleeve.

In cutting out the top and under sleeve the most simplest way, fold the sheet of paper on which the sleeve draft is made and cut out double the top sleeve and leave the ½ inch of the under sleeve at the bottom for the under sleeve which is ½ inch lower than the top sleeve and when the top sleeve is all cut out, cut that ½ inch off at the bottom of the top sleeve and as soon as you are through with the top sleeve, cut out the under sleeve from the original draft of that sheet of paper and then notch the top and under sleeve according to the following instructions. Place the top and under sleeve together at the outside seams. Begin at the beginning of the top and place the notch at the top and elbow and again take it even at the bottom and notch between bottom and elbow, which will leave about ½ inch of the amount in the length of top in sleeve at the elbow, which is to be given in. Then make also notches at the inside seam at the sleeve in the similar way. Place the two seams at the top and bottom and make notches between the center space of top to elbow, and bottom up to elbow, and at the inside sleeve, you will find that the under sleeve is about ½ inch longer, which is to be given in when the seam is sewed up. These actions will bring the sleeve ready for mechanical tailoring. Remember that all seams are allowed.