Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/142

136 FOUNDATION OF SLEEVE WITHOUT FULLNESS

LESSON NO. 59

Before beginning to draft a sleeve, we need to remember the size of the garment to which this sleeve is to be used and, as a rule, we make use of different sizes of model patterns, which are as follows: We use for women's size model, size 36. For misses' size model, size 16 of which the breast measurement is 34. For juniors' size model, size 15 of which the breast measurement is 33. For children's size model, size 10 of which the breast measurement is 30, and for infants' size model, size 4 of which the breast measurement is 24 inches.

To begin the sleeve for size 36 draw a square line from 1 to 4 and 1 and 5 and mark from 1 to 2, 13 of size, which is 6 inches for size 36 and divide the space between 1 and 2, which makes 9. Now mark the inside length of sleeve from 2 to 4 which is 18 inches for size 36 and divide the space between 2 and 4 to make 3 in order to make the line for the elbow. To continue cross all lines from 1 to 5, 2 to 6, 3 to 7 and 4 to 8 and measure from 1 to 5 and 4 to 8, ½ of size, which makes 9 inches for size 36 and draw a line down from 5to8; measure from 6 to 0 one-twelfth of size which amounts to 1½ inches for size 36, connect with a line from to 9, divide from to 9 which makes 11 and draw a square line down from 11 to 12 and divide between 11 and 12 which makes 13 Now remember that these lines are the foundation lines for the sleeves and whenever we need the sleeves we are to draw these lines all the time. The next lesson will continue how to finish the sleeve. Also remember that these foundation lines might be drawn for any size wanted. All you have to do is to use the breast measurement of any size desired for any style of garment.

To obtain different sizes of sleeve drafts, we need to look up the different breast measurements and use the breast measurement for the sleeve draft of whatever size it may be from time to time and if in case we need a size 34, use 13 of size of that 34 just as well as we use ⅓ of size for size 36 and also use the ½ of size for the width of sleeve and the length of the inside, which is also to be found on the table of proportions for this size. For juniors' and children's sizes and just as well for misses' sizes, remember that we use as a size number the chest or breast number and positively not the bust number as the bust number is only to be used for the increase of bust measurements and for nothing else.