Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/141

135 CONVERTIBLE COLLAR

LESSON NO. 58

The convertible collar is such that can only be draped into the neck of the front and is to serve for a garment which is to be buttoned up and also layout as a lapel, which shows the shape effect of the coat when unbuttoned. To begin this collar mark out the front, especially, the neck carefully from 1 to 8 to 2 and then continue the lapel part from 2 to 3 down to 4. 4 is the opening length for this coat or jacket and this opening maybe decided and, as a rule, shall always be along opening rather than a short one. To continue with this always extend from 1 to 5. 1 inch for stand space and connect with a line from 4 against 5 up to 6. From 5 to 6 is $1/undefined$ of size and 1 inch allowance which amounts to 3½ inches for size 36 and the width between 6 and 7 is also 1 inch and connect 7 to 1 Now measure the space between 8 and 2 amounting to 1½ inches, which is one-twelfth of size 36 and then see that both the lapel and collar notches from 2 to 3 and 2 to 9 shall each be 3 inches and the space between 9 and 3 shall not be more than ½ inch opened and then curve from 3 to 4 for the lapel and from 9 to 10 for the collar. The space between 6 and 10 is 3½ inches which is about ½ inch more than the width of collar in front from 2 to 9.

Important for tailoring. This collar will serve for the two different purposes as shown in diagram No. 1 and No. 2. Note that the dotted line from 6 to 2 shows the folding part of under collar for the buttoning up of garment and the canvas in there has to be so prepared that the folding seam of two separate parts of the canvas are to meet on the trace line from 6 to 2 so that the collar may fold strongly when buttoned up at that particular line. Should the collar be used as a shape lapel, which means unbuttoned as shown on diagram No. 2 it will fold on the straight line from 6 to 4. Notice that according to this instruction all seams are already allowed.