Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/140

134 SAILOR COLLAR WITH STAND

LESSON NO. 57

For the sailor collar with stand, we need a front and back of a jacket or coat as this sailor collar is built according to the neck of the garment and it may be most convenient that as soon as the draft is made a collar can immediately be built on the draft. To begin the sailor collar at the back raise a collar stand from 1 to 43, 1½ inches and at 11. 1 inch from the regular back neck and connect 11 with a curve to 12, which actually means that the back part of the jacket or coat is the foundation for this sailor collar, which is noticeable by the trace lines, which are marked on the back diagram from 43 to 11, 12, H and 2 up to 43. This completes the back part of the sailor collar.

The front part is conducted as follows: Cross a straight line out from 17 up to 41 and at the same time mark the breast line at 38 and connect with the usual stand line from 40 to 38. Between 17 and 40 is 1 inch for the usual collar stand and then measure the width of collar, which is followed by the width of shoulder of the back from 11 to 12 and place the same from 17 to 41 and connect with a curve from 41 to 38. The actual collar width in front is from 41 to 42. The inner dotted line from 40 to 17 all the way down to 38 is the allowance for the facing part for the finishing of collar. Note that no separate under collar is necessary. The entire front collar from the opening up to the shoulder seam can be in one piece. It is understood that the collar has a shoulder seam just as well as the jacket and coat is built and no additional seams are to be allowed.

To cut out or separate this sailor collar trace off the sailor collar of the back as follows: From 43 to 2 and 11 to 12 down to 8 and 8 to 24. The top collar of the front is to be traced from 17 below 38 up to 42 and to 17. Both of these parts shall act as the original top collar. For under collar only double the back collar and for the front of the collar, the front remains in one piece with lapel which acts as under collar for the front.