Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/139

133 STORM COLLAR

LESSON NO. 56

The storm collar is continued of the same foundation as the lay over collar, the lesson shown before this and in order to make the different changes, use the following instructions. To begin, draw the same foundation as the lesson before and draw a line from D to C out to M, which will increase the fullness in width of collar, which is needed in order that this collar shall not draw any fullness or brake when laying over. The width of this collar is about 6 inches, which shall be allowed from B to M, I to H, F to J and F to L. In order to prepare the front part of this collar at L, we also use the rule of the lesson before. We increase from F to K the same amount as the width of collar and divide from J to K and draw a line from F to L. Now curve from N, M, P, H, O, J and L to F.

The collar stand for this storm collar is increased in width about ¾ of an inch, which is additionally allowed from E to 1 and G to 2. This collar is now divided in two equal parts between F and E, which makes Q and draw a line up from Q to H. This line will divide the collar in two parts which is needed to make this collar well fitted and which will also make this collar in 4 pieces. In order to prepare this collar allow from H to P ¾ of an inch and H to O 1½ inches and connect O to X down to Sand P to I down to R. Also prepare the stand of this collar allow at the bottom both sides of to S and R ⅜ of an inch. Remember that this allowance at top and bottom is allowed for the spring effect for this collar. When the collar is cut out allow special seams at the place where it is special splited at P and O down to S and R, as a rule, we do not allow for these particular seams when making the foundation of this collar and the reason why we do not do so is to keep the two foundations for this and the lesson before this in one solid action or rule.

Curve this collar as follows: From 1, D and C to N; N and M to O down to X and S and from S to 1. This completes the back part of the collar. The front part for this collar begins from R and I to P and from P and J to L; from L and F to 2 and from 2 to R. This completes the front part of the collar. When these parts are cut out do not forget to allow seams on both sides of P and O and S and R. This completes the collar.