Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/136

130 STANDING COLLAR

LESSON NO. 53

In drafting patterns for collars, follow these instructions. Measure carefully the neck of a pattern you intend to use this collar for. Such measurements can be taken two different ways; with or without seams It shall be understood that when the neck is measured including the seams of the garment, in such case, no additional seams shall be allowed when beginning to draft the collar. If seams are deducted of all neck parts of the pattern before the measurements are taken, in such case, allow for seams, which is about 1 inch to be allowed to the collar It shall now be remembered that the best way to take the measurements of the neck including seams so that there are no seams to be allowed when making the draft of the collar but when measurements are taken from the measurement of the table of proportions there shall always be one additional inch for the seam of the collar.

Now begin to draft; each and every collar has its foundation which consists of several lines. For instance, when beginning the standing collar use the all around measurement of the neck and draw lines from A to B and B to U. From A to B is 3 inches for the height of collar and B to D is 15 inches including 1 inch seam for this collar. It shall be understood that these 15 inches for the collar includes the 1 inch seam so that the neck measurement amounts to 14 inches only. The additional 1 inch is allowed as there is one complete seam to be used for this collar. Now raise up from D to C. 3 inches and connect a line from C to A. Divide between A and C and B and D, which makes the center line E to F. In order to get the collar in shape raise from B to H and D to I, 1 inch and from F to G also 1 inch lower.

Make the curves as shown on the diagram from A to K and C to J, mark ½ inch and connect K to H and J to 1 and then curve from K and G to J and from H and E to I. This completes the standing collar useful for all garments. It shall be understood that the foundation for a standing collar shall be 1 inch wider than the actual width of collar is supposed to be. You will note on the above diagram that the foundation is 3 inches in width and when the collar is all complete and curved, the width of the collar is only 2 inches. It should therefore be understood that whatever width of collar you may desire to have the foundation for same shall be 1 inch wider as 1 inch is occupied for curving. At the same time the size of collar is to be drafted 1 inch larger, which is to be occupied for the seams at the 2 edges, which is from I to J and H to K.