Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/130

124 LESSON NO. 50 (Continued.)

To begin the side body, take out ¼ of an inch space between 35 and 39 and allow from 36 to 40, ¾ of an inch and cross a line from 39, 40 down to 41, which may also be done by a curve of the round stick. Take out between 12 and 42 and 14 to 44, ¾ inches and from 42 to 43 is the edge of the back side body towards the under-arm and curve from 42 to 14 down to 46 for the hip part of the same side body and this completes the entire back with the side body. The front part can now be built by taking out from 13 to 43, ¾ inches and connecting 45 to 12 and also from 45 towards 44 and 63 curved by a round stick. Before going any further, prepare the space of a dart, which means we have now to consider the space or the allowance for the stoutness in front.

The stoutness shall always be looked up in a very cautious manner and in order to do so, compare the waist measurement of a regular size 42 supposed to be and the waist measurement of this measurement, which means that the regular waist measurement for 42 might be 29 inches. Now see for instance, that the waist measurement for size 42 is 29 inches and the waist measurement of this measurement, which we herewith use is 32 inches. This means that this stout waist measurement is an over-growth of 3 inches and therefore take half of this amount, which is 1½ inches and allow additional in front between S and 30 at the waist line in front 1½ to the ¾'s, which we always use or allow for the half fitting jacket or coat, which will make the space between 8 and 30 about 2¼ inches and as soon as the amount of this 2' t inches is allowed between 8 and 30, draw a line from 4½ to 7 and from 7 down against to 30 to 57, which will make the edge of the front and then divide at the waist line between 8 and 30 and take half of this which makes 29, which is specified by the spear and which is about ready marked for making a dart line.

The dart shall begin by dividing the chest from 21 to 7, which makes 46 and taking out the space between 7 to 46 and then measure the space from 29 or the spear to 47, which may be then clear that the space between 7 to 41 is 9 inches and the half of that is therefore from 7 to 46, 4½ inches and make from 29 to 47 also 4½ inches and draw a line from 46 to 47 down to 49. Now divide between 46 and 47, which makes 48 and will show the beginning of the dart or the height of the bust. Measure from 8 to 31, 1½ inches, which means ½ inch shorter as we always make for regular sizes 2 inches and then cross a line from 45 to 31 and measure on that line at 50, which is the long waist line for the dart line from 50 to 51 a half inch and from 50 to 52, 1½ inches and connect a line from 48 to 51 and 52 and square a line down from 51 to 53 down to 56 and from 52 to 54 and 55 and from 49 to 53 is a half inch. The french seam in front is worked as usual. Take half of the front shoulder from 26 to 58 of which half is 59 and allow both sides of 59 to 60 and 61, ⅜ of an inch and make connections for french seam to 48, as usual. Take special notice that the entire stoutness is to be worked at the dart in front and special allowance has to be made for such stoutness at the straight waist line above the usual allowance which can be found additionally allowed from 29 to 30 and as this jacket is built on a half fitting foundation for which the usual allowance for the dart is ¾ of an inch from 8 to 29 and an additional allowance for stoutness is to be allowed from 29 to 30 and this special allowance is to be increased with half the amount of whatever the increase between regular and large waist measurement which makes stoutness for this particular size.