Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/13

7 GRAMMAR OF PROPORTIONS FOR PATTERN CUTTING

FOR FEMALE GARMENTS

The grammar of proportions for pattern cutting for female garments is adapted from the first 10 numbers, which are producing the height and width proportions of the woman's body. These numbers are called grammar numbers and they are as follows: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7. 8, 9, 10 and shall be divided into 2 classes, called odd numbers and even numbers and they are originators of the height and width proportions.

To begin, let us first produce the regular width proportion number, which is size 36 for the woman's form therefore, let us write out the grammar numbers, 1, 2, 3, 4,5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and connect the odd and even numbers as follows. Now connect the odd numbers 1 and 3 and 5 and 7 and add these numbers as 1 and 3 is 4; 5 and 7 is 12. Now connect the even numbers, 2 and 4 is 6; 6 and 8 is 14 and add these numbers, which are 4 and 12, and 6 and 14, which amounts to 36 inches which is the size of the garment and the beginning number of the width proportions.

In order to get the other width proportional numbers add the beginning number of 36, which is 3, to the total amount of 36. which will make 39 inches for the standard bust measurement To get the waist measurement, take ⅓ 3 of 36 inches and 1 inch less which is 11 and take these 11 inches from 36, which leaves 25 inches for the waist measurement. To get the hip measurement take ½ of 36 and add it to the waist measurement, which is 25 inches and this will make 43 inches for the standard hip measurement.

To get the height proportions, the grammar numbers are again used as at the beginning 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 and connect the beginning and ending numbers between 1 and 10. You will note that when we make connections of the first and last numbers of the 10 grammar numbers, which will now directly produce the total standard height for size 36, it will produce 5 different sections of 11 inches, which the total amounts to 55 inches and as these 55 inches do not fulfill the total for the standard height, we add one additional amount equal to one of these 5 sections, which amounts to 11 inches and then it will give a total of 66 inches, which is the total standard height for the size 36 form. Now continue and add the first and last numbers of the 10 grammar numbers as follows: 1 and 1O is 11. 2 and 9 is 11. 3 and 8 is 11 4 and 7 is 11, 5 and 6 is 11.