Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/129

123 STOUT HALF-FITTING FRENCH SEAM JACKET

LESSON NO. 50

In beginning be careful and examine the measurements by which this garment is changed for the stout form and always look for the increase of waist, which is the only measurement that makes a form stoutly built. Note that this diagram is also showing how to cut this stout pattern by special measurements and such instruction can be found under the heading of Special Measurements. For this regular size stout form use measurements as follows:

Now begin to draft; draw lines as usual from 1 to S and I to 6 and measure then from 1 to 2, 7¼ inches back depth, 1to 3, 15½ inches waist length, 3 to 4, 6 inches hip length and from 1 to 5, 28 inches full length of jacket. Now cross all lines from 1 to 6, 2 to 7, 3 to 8, 4 to 9 and 5 to 10. Draw lines as usual and remember that the only change that there is to be made in this garment is that we are now drafting a pattern for a stout form a half-fitting jacket with french seems instead of a plain box coat, as shown in the last pages and therefore make the usual outlines and measure from 2 to 12 and 4 to 14, ⅔ of size, which will amount to for this size 42, 14 inches and then draws line from 14 up to 12 and 11 and divide immediately for the width of back between 2 and 4 and 12, which makes 15 and from 15 to 16 allow as usual 1¼ inches and raise up to 17 and then complete the back neck as usual from 1 to 18, $1/undefined$ of size, which will amount to for this size 3½ inches and raise up from 18 to 19, 1 inch and make the shoulder as usual from 19 to 20 down to 16 and allow from 20 to 2½, ¾ of an inch for the french seam at the back all the way through to 16. This completes the back foundation

The front part is now continued by increasing from 12 to 21 up to 22, 3 inches and from 22 to 23 and 23 up to 24, $1/undefined$, of size for which each space will amount to 3½ inches for this size and the same amount allow from 23 to 6, which will complete the front neck space. Before going any further, make the incline of the back and measure from 4 to 33, 7½ inches and from 3 to 32, 2 inches and draw lines from 1 to 32 and from 32 against 33 down to 34 and then cross a line from 24 or 26 to 27. In order to understand the change at 24 and 26, it shall be done as follows: When using this as a regular size, the line from 27 shall be connected to 24 and when followed by special measurements, which may be connected between 21, 26 and 25; it may be followed as a special measurement for same will prove satisfactory and this will be fully explained and found under the heading of Special Measurements. For regular size connect a line from 24 to 27 and use the neck curve from 24 to 6.

The bust measurement shall be measured from 27 to 28 where we always do allow half of bust measurement, which is 22 inches for 44 bust. From 28 to 7 is 3 inches allowed for seams and from 7 cross a line down to 8. 9 and 10. The french seam at the back begin by measuring from 32 to 35 on the waist line $1/undefined$ of size which is 3½ inches for this size and 1 inch more on the hip line between 33 and 36and then divide the shoulder space of the back from 19 to 2½, which makes 38 and connect a straight line from 38 to 35 and from 35 down to 36 and 37. (Continued on the following page.)