Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/126

120 HOW TO DRAFT A BOX COAT FOR A STOUT FORM

LESSON NO. 48

The stout coat is commenced the same as the others, except the change of the stoutness. The measurements for this garment are taken as usual.

Begin to draft as usual; from A to B is 7¼ inches back depth, A to C is 15¼ inches natural waist length, C to D is 6 inches hip space, A to E is 30 inches full length of coat. Now cross all lines as usual and measure from B to G and D to H, ⅔ of size as always and cross a line from H to G up to the top line. Divide from B to G, which makes J. From J to I is 1 14 inches and draw a lineup from I to K, from K to L is $1/undefined$ of size or 3⅜ inches for this size. From L to M is 1 inch and draw a line from M to K and N and square a line down to I. From C to 12 is 2 inches and cross a line from 12 to A.

The front begins from G to O 3 inches; now raise a line up from O to P: from P to Q is $1/undefined$ of size, also from Q to R and to F. Now cross a line for the front shoulder from R to T and measure the back shoulder from M to N and place the same amount to the front shoulder from R to 9. Cross a line from 9 to O for the front armhole. Now measure the bust from T to S; from S to 8 is 3 inches for seams; now cross a line from 8 down to Z.

Now begin the stoutness: look over your waist measurement for this stout size. Also look for the waist measure on the regular size and see the difference between the two measurements. The regular waist measure for size 40 is 27 inches and for this stout, the waist measure is 30 inches; the difference of these two measurements is 3 inches. Now take half of these 3 inches, which is 1½ inches and allow from V to W. Now cross a line from 8 to V and down to Y. Separate the front and back; take half of 1 to G, which makes 2; from 2 to 4 is 1½ inches. Now cross a line from 2 to H down to 15; 16 is 1 inch up from 15 and curve from 16 to E. Measure the front hip, from 18 to X is 45 hip to be measured on ⅔ from X to 3 is 2 inches for fullness; from U to Z is 3 inches. Now complete the side lines from 2 to 16 and take the same with ¼ of an inch longer from 4 to 7 and make a curved line from 7 to Z and Y. This completes the bottom of the front. Now begin the stout part; cross a line down from O to 10 for the pocket place; from 10 to 5 and 6 is 3 inches both sides or full 6 inches for the pocket. Now cross a line from 5 to W; on both sides of V to 13 and 14, take out ⅜ of an inch: this amount shall be half the amount of V to W, which is the increase for stoutness, this amount shall be folded up as shown on the diagram. Now split for under-arm seam from G to 1 is 1 inch; from 6 to 11 is 1½ inches and split from 1 to 11 before folding up the front. See next lesson.