Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/125

119 THE STUDY OF THE STOUT FORM

LESSON NO. 47

In measuring the stout form, we will find a great change in formality. The changes are shown in many respects, as there are regular stouts, short stouts and extra stouts. The regular stout form is built in regular depth and natural waist length. The width of back is proportional to its size. The bust measurement is increased for its proportional use. The waist is increased or over-built for the size of chest and bust measurements, as a rule, for the stout forms.

The short Stout form is changed by all means. The depth is always regulated by the size of the garment. The natural waist length is short according to the regular length. The sleeves are also very short The bust, as a rule, shows full on short builds but it is not over-built. The waist is the only over-built part The increase is about 2 or 3 inches like the regular stout form. The side body is a great deal shorter than it is for regular builds as the depth is regular in length and the waist length is very short. The neck for this form is also very short.

The extra stout form is changed in measurements regarding the height. The depth and waist length is very long. The neck is high for this form and the sleeve length is increased according to the height of forms. The regular length for sleeves is 18 inches: the short sleeve length is from 16 to 17 inches. The extra stout sleeve length is 19 to 20 inches.

The neck for stout forms is short and large in size.

The chest for stout forms is very flat.

The bust for stout forms is medium.

The waist for stout forms is unlimitedly large.

The hip for stout forms is long effected and flat.

The hips for stout forms are small, therefore, the bottom of the skirt might be too narrow.

In case of having a narrow bottom for skirts, it should be increased to the regular width of bottom desired. This increase shall begin from the hip or side seam, equally divided on both front and back. Regarding measurements for stouts, see index for table of stout proportions.