Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/121

115 HOW TO DRAFT ALL KINDS OF SIZES

LESSON NO. 46

To draft all kinds of sizes, we only need to look over the table of proportions in order to get measurements for the depth and natural waist length for the size wanted. After having the depth and waist length, we begin to draft as usual. Now suppose we want to draft a size 40 for which measurements are as follows:

In drafting, we first use the depth and natural waist length and after we use the size number as usual and for this size we use 40. To begin draw lines as shown on the diagram from A to B is 7¼ inches depth A to C is 15¾ inches natural waist length and C to D is 6 inches hip space always and cross all lines as usual from B to G and D to E is ⅔ or 13⅜ inches. Now take half of B to G which makes H, H to I is 1¼ inches and cross a line up from I to J. From A to K is $1/undefined$ of size or 3⅜ inches for this size and K to L is always 1 inch.

Begin the back shoulder and draw a line from L, J to M and square a line down to I. From D to S is always 1½ inches and C to Q is 2 inches and this part is not changeable for women's garments. From S to Z is $1/undefined$ of size or 3⅜ inches; from Q to R is 1 inch less than from S to Z or 2⅜ inches and cross lines from Z to R and R to H. Now divide from I to J, which makes N and cross a line from N to O. Curve the back from O to R; from Z to Y is ¾ of an inch; R to 4 is 1 inch and cross lines from Y to 4 and from 4 to H. Shape from O to H and 4. O to P is ¾ of an inch up and a ½ inch allowed for a seam. Allow from G to I and E to 2, ¾ of an inch and draw a line from 1 to 2, 3 on the waist line; take half of 3 and 4, which makes 5; from H to I, which makes 6. Now cross a line from 6 to 5 down to 27 and 6 to 7 is 1 inch. From both sides of 5 take out ¾ of an inch at 25 and 26; both sides of 27 allow ¾ of an inch on the hip line and cross lines from 6 to 25 and 26 to the waist line; also from 25 to 29 and 26 to 28 down to the hip line. (Continued on the following page.)