Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/118

112 NEW COLLARLESS VEST

LESSON NO. 44

The foundation of this vest is the same as the others. Note that this underarm seam is taken in the center of the armhole, which is between 9 and 16 and half of this amount makes it center at 25. Now draw a line from 25 to 27 and take out both sides of 25 to 6 and 28, ¾ of an inch to each side and both sides of 26, which is on the waist line, take out 1½ inches each side and make use of the round stick curve to 28, 30 and 32, which completes the back side seam. To make the front part, complete the side seam also with a round stick curve. From 6, 29 down to 31 and the front part of this vest is prepared as usual, which means by the bust measurement and a straight line down from 23 down to 24. which is about the bottom of this vest.

The opening of this vest is taken between the top line and breast line, which is marked at 37, which is taken between 14 to 23. The neck, which makes it a collarless vest and high-buttoned, is prepared with the usual action of the neck which is from 18 to 14, $1/undefined$ of size and from 14 connected with a round line to the bust at 23 lost to the waist line at 39 to reach the bottom or full length at 38.

The full length is finished with the 6 inch allowance from the waist line down which makes it from 39 to 24. 39 is the regular waist line and 24 is 6 inches below 39 and the hook of the bottom of this vest in the front, which is at 40 is between 39 to 38. From 24 to 38 is 1 inch, which makes this front curvy or cut-away to fit this vest better at the bottom part of the front.

The dart for this vest is only a split in a bias way just crossing the center of the pocket and in order to explain this dart better, it is necessary for me to explain the place of the pocket.

The pocket is placed in from the edge of the side seam of front about 1 inch and the height part from the bottom to the pocket between 31 and 41 is 3 inches and in the front from the bottom line up to 42, the space is 3½ inches and therefore draw a line from 41 to 42 and make the veil of this pocket from about 1 inch in width and between 41 and 42 shall be ¼ of the size, which makes 4½ inches for size 36. The dart cuts across the pocket from 43 to 44. It is about the double amount of the height of the pocket from the bottom line up of the front, which will make this amount not more than 7 inches from 43 to 44. To finish this vest note the important changes from the ordinary foundation which are as follows: The shoulder is 1 inch narrower for each front and back. The ink line at the back is straight down from 1 to 34 and curve as shown on the diagram. The neck piece, whichistobeone piece with the front which is placed from 19 to 20 is $1/undefined$ of size or the same space as the back is from 1 to 12. The width of that piece from 20 to 35 and 19 to 36 is about 1¼ inches. The button stand which is placed at the edge of the front from 37 down to 40 is about 1 inch and it may be changed to a trifle wider or narrower.