Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/116

110 SINGLE BREASTED COLLARLESS VEST

LESSON NO. 43

This vest is drafted on the same foundation as the other garments and measurements are as follows:

Now begin drafting the same way as usual. From A to B is 7 inches back depth; A to C is 15½ inches natural waist length; C to D is 3 inches hip space. Now draw lines as usual, from B to G and C to E is ⅔ of size or 12 inches. Make the width of back as usual and also make the back shoulder as usual, to M. Divide for the side seam from I to G, which makes 7 and draw a line down to 13. Take out of both sides of 7. ¾ of an inch at 9 and 10 and on the waist line both sides of 8 take out 1½ inches to 11 and 12 and on the bottom line both sides of 13 to 14 and 15 take out 1 inch and curve the back from 10, 12 to 15 and the front side seam from 9, 11 and 14.

Now begin the front; from G to F is $1/undefined$ of size or 3 inches and draw a line from F to Q to P, which is $1/undefined$ of size or 3 inches. From P to O is also $1/undefined$ of size or 3 inches, now draw a straight line up from P to R. O to R is $1/undefined$ of size or 3 inches. Cross a line from the front shoulder from O to T and make the front shoulder as usual. Measure the bust from T to U. U to V is 3 inches for seams and cross a line down from V to 2. is the waist line; X to Y is ¾ of an inch and draw a line from V to Y and Z.

To begin measuring the opening and full length, measure from A to L and place the same to R and O down to V. R to V is 15 inches opening and from R to 2 is the full length in front which is 26 inches and 1 inch more allowed for workmanship is 2 7 inches and cross a line from 2 to 14. 14 is 1 inch from 13 the same as 15 to 13.

'Make the dart as usual. Divide the chest and draw a line from 3 to 25; 4 to 5 is 1 inch; 4 to 6 is 2 inches and curve the dart from 19, 1 inch up, down to 5 and 20. Again from 19, 6 to 21 cross a parallel line from 20 to 21 and shape 21 to 14. Curve the shoulder and armholes as shown. The shoulders shall be ½ inch less in width and shape the side and back, as shown on the diagram.

The place for the pocket is from E to 16. 1 inch on the long waist line; 16 to 17 shall be 4 inches for the size of the pocket for size 36. This means a ½ inch less than ¼ of this size; the width for the veil shall be 1 inch finished. This completes this pocket and there is no other pocket necessary for ladies' vests.