Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/112

106 CUT-AWAY FRONT FOR RIDING COAT

LESSON NO. 41

To prepare the cut-away front for the riding coat, it is necessary to first understand that the front part of the coat is not cut-away but the skirt, which is cut away and we therefore cut out the front part and the skirt of the draft and place them together as per instruction here with given and shown on the opposite diagram.

When having the front and skirt part already cut out from the draft, mark out first the front part of the riding coat as follows: Place the edge of the front pattern on the sheet of paper in the same manner as you draft a pattern and then mark out the edge of the front from the lapel down to the bottom, which is from A, B. C and D and then mark out the inner part of the same pattern from D, X, F and all around, as shown on the diagram. When you have the front entirely marked out, then draw a straight line down to the edge of the front from B, C and D down to E and place the front edge of the skirt to that line between D and E and mark out the entire skirt as follows: From D to J; K down to M and 1, and then finish the bottom from L to E.

Now remember that you are about to make the cut-away curve and it is therefore necessary for you to know that the cut-away part should begin at the very last button of the front, which begins at G and then make the curves, as you will note, shown on the diagram. For a less amount of cut-away, curve from C to G; for more cut-away, curve from T to H and for a great deal more, curve from C Lo I Remember that these amounts for making the skirt cut away is in connection with style and also taste and it is therefore necessary for you to use your own judgment in this case but follow always this rule of how to apply or connect the combining of the front part of the coat to the skirt producing a cut-away front for the riding coat.