Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/110

104 SINGLE BREASTED RIDING COAT

LESSON NO. 40

This garment is drafted on the same principles as the first tight-fitting jacket in lesson 3. Some of the measurements are changed regarding this style of garment as it is used mostly for horse-back riding purposes and measurements are as follows:

To begin, draw outlines the same as for all other jackets and coats. From A to B is 7 inches depth; A to C is 15½ inches natural waist length; A to D is 17½ inches fashionable waist length; A to XX is 40 inches full length of coat. Now measure from C to Z 6 inches for the regular hip line. Cross lines from A to W, B to 20, C to 19, D to 15, Z to 11 and XX to 13. After having all lines crossed begin to make the same outlines as always and complete the tight-fitting jacket of lesson 3 to the natural waist length and follow further instructions. Now make the center back line as always all the way down to the bottom from S to R down to XX and also continue the inner back line from 36 against 11 down to 12 and immediately make the fashionable waist line at D, which is 2 inches below the natural waist line at C and when having the entire upper part finished as the first tight-fitting jacket finish the lower parts at the fashionable waist line, as follows: From 43 to 2 is ⅜ of an inch, both sides of 8 to 50 and 51 is always ⅜ of an inch From 30 to 15 is also ⅜ of an inch and from 32 to 52 is -'4 of an inch. Now make curves on fashionable waist line from 2 to 51, from 50 to 15, from 52 to 31 and from 28 to 55. At 55 raise up ½ inch for curving as for all jackets on the bottom. The dart for this garment is also made the same as the first tight-fitting jacket with the exception that this dart is reaching only to the fashionable waist line.

Now begin the skirt part; cross the front line from 33 down to 13; from 13 to 16 is 2 inches, now cross a line from 16 to 25; from 25 to 28 and from 16 to 17 is 1 inch space. Now cross a line from 28 to 17, which is the front edge of the skirt. Square a line from 2 to 1 this is 6 inches hip length; now cross a line from 1 to 5 and from 1 to 5 is half of hip measure 43 or 10¾ inches. Now cross a line from 2 against 5 to 41. This space from 2 to 41 is longer with ¾ of an inch than the space from 43 to 12; now allow from 5 to 54, ¾ of an inch for roundness and now finish the bottom of the skirt with a round curve from 41 to 16 and 17.

Now begin to curve all parts of this garment. When curving watch the diagram carefully; begin at the back, from L to A and connect with $1/undefined$ of size or 3 inches and curve to T. Now curve both shoulders from M to 34 down to 36 and 43 this is the back at the fashionable waist line. At 43 to 2 and 12 to 40 allow 1 inch all the way down the same way as from 45 to 47 and XX to 41. The 1 inch allowances at the skirt and back is allowed for a side pleat, which this particular style of coat needs. Now curve the side body from X, H and 3 to 2; from 2 to 15 curve as shown; from 8 up to 50 and 51 is ½ inch. Now curve the sides from 9 and 10 to 50 and 51, from N to 4 and 15, from 14 to 52 and 52 to 31. Now curve the dart on front from 30 to 27, 28, 29 and 31; from 28 to 55; 55 is 1 inch up from 35; now curve the front from 20 to 53 and 55. This completes the single breasted riding coat.