Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/108

102 INVERNESS OR CAPE COAT

LESSON NO. 39

This garment is drafted on the same outlines as the box coat. To begin to make the changes of this garment, divide from I to G. which makes 4 and draw a line from 4 to M.

Begin the front, from 4 to 5 is 1½ inches, draw a line to 3 down to 13, divide G to W, which makes 16 and cross a line from 1 6 to 17. Now curve the first armhole from U to 17 and curve also the back shoulder from I, to J and M down with a straight line to 12 and 12 is 1 inch up from 11. Now make the front cape; make a round line from the front shoulder from U to C and sweep from C by O towards the front, which makes 6. The front of the cape part begins at the neck from Z. X and 8 down to 6 and from 7 to 8 is ¾ of an inch. At the front shoulder at U and 2 make a lost dart to 18, which will show an effect of an armhole to the upper cape. The button stand for this garment is 2 inches only, as there is no use for any more.

This garment shows a button up neck therefore raised up from 20 to Z, ¾ of an inch and allow for button stand from Z to 10, 2 inches. Now curve from O to Z, 10, Y and 9 down with the straight line at 14; from 14 to the bottom curve is always 1½ inches. This garment shall be cut of a full box coat and has no sleeves as the armhole is not cut in the usual way. The armhole begins at 11 and finishes at 17. 17 is taken opposite from 16 and 16 is taken half way between G and W at the side line. The cape begins from O, U, 2 and C around to 6 and up to 8, X. Z to O and as this cape covers the armhole, this style of coat therefore does not require a separate sleeve.

The inverness or cape coat shall be made up as follows: When having the back, front and cape cut out and in order to close or sew the shoulder seam and side seam together, prepare the cape first; place the cape between front and back shoulder seams so that the cape shall be sewed together between front and back at one time. This completes the inverness or cape coat.