Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/106

100 OPERA CLOAK

LESSON NO. 38

This garment is drafted on the same outlines as all others. In drafting it, it is changed to a great extent as it is only used for evening wear. To begin draw all lines as usual, from A to B is 7 inches depth; A to C is 15½ inches natural waist length; C to D is 6 inches hip length and A to E is 50 inches full length. Now cross all lines, from B to G and D to J is ⅔ of size or 12 inches for size 36.

Make the width of back as usual; H is half of Band G. H to I is 1¼ inches, now draw a line up to M and produce the shoulder to N. From G to the star (*) is $1/undefined$ of size or 3 inches for size 36. Measure the space from I to the star (*) and make the same from the star (*) to O, or that can be done in a different manner, as follows: You may change this method by measuring from G to O, 9 inches or for more fullness 12 inches, and after you divide between I and O, which will make the star (*) in the center of the space; now cross a line up from O to Q, from Q to P is $1/undefined$ of size or 3 inches, from P to R is also $1/undefined$ of size or 3 inches, from P to 3 is $1/undefined$ of size or 3 inches, from 3 to 4 is ¾ of an inch. Now make the armhole curve sweep by the star from 1, 10 to O.

The bust for this garment is not measured the same way as for others. From O to T measure ¼ of size or 9 inches for size 36. Now cross a line down from T to U and from U to V is ½ of an inch. Cross a line from 4 to T, V down to Z and W. W is 2 inches below Z. 4 to 6 and W to 8 is 4 inches button stand for a double-breasted front. This front can be made for any style front wanted.

Now make the front shoulder, from R to F is 6 inches; now draw a line from F to O, make the circle for the globe by the star from O to 10 and I, which covers the armhole. The over space of fullness is gathered into the armhole, from O to F and N and I, when the shoulder seam is connected. The back of this cape can be made either way, with or without a seam in the back. If no seam in back is wanted, use the straight line from A to E. This cape shall be cut shapy as it is called the ripple style.

'To draft the ripple back draw out a line from the depth point 2 out to the waist point C, this increases from E to 3; now curve from A to 2 towards the waist point at C down to the bottom at 3 and curve the bottom from 3 to 8, as shown on the diagram.