Page:The practical designer (Rosenfeld, 1918).djvu/104

98 LONG CAPE

LESSON NO. 37

This cape is also begun the same way as the others. It carries the same measurements and shall measure from 50 to 54 inches in length. To begin draw outlines as usual; from A to B is 7 inches depth, A to C is 15½ inches natural waist length. C to D is 6 inches hip length, A to E is 50 inches full length. Now draw all outlines for the back as usual. I is the width of back line and G is the regular box line.

Now draft the outlines for the front and draw a straight line from X to Z. From Z to 1 is ½ inch, cross a line from X down to the bottom 4; from 3 to 4 is 2 inches. Now make the button stand from W to 15, from X to 2 and from 4 to 3, 2 inches.

The bottom of a long cape shall carefully be considered before it is made. The bottom width for all the full length garments shall measure the same as the length; this cape measures 50 inches in length, these 50 inches shall be divided as follows: From E to 13 shall measure 20 inches in the back, from 9 to 12 shall measure 30 inches. To make this clearly understood, divide always the amount in half and 5 inches less for the back and 5 inches more for the front. Now draw the back side lines from M against 10 down to the bottom line 13 and the front side from U down to the bottom line against E.

Make curves at the shoulders, as shown on the diagram Begin the back from L lost with a curve at J down to M and 14. Now curve the front, from O lost with a curve passing V down to 12, as shown on the diagram.

To get the proper lengths at the side seam, measure from L to 14. which is the side seam at the back and apply the same measurement from O against 12, which is the front shoulder seam and finish up the bottom at the front, at the very same time, from 3 to 9 is 1 inch and make a curve from 12 to 9, which will finish the bottom of the front. The back shall also be curved by raising up from 13 to 14, ¾ of an inch and make a curve from 14 to E, which is the bottom of the center back. Otherwise this cape is all finished.

If a narrow bottom of this cape is wanted, it shall be mostly deducted of the front side seam at 12 inside.which is on the side of the front bottom and lost with a straight line up at the shoulder curve connecting up at U, as shown on the diagram.