Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/86

77 A CIRCLE CAPE WITH A SHOULDER DART.

LESSON 34.

This cape is made of the same pattern as the circle cape, to begin mark out first the back pattern, hen the back is all marked out, connect the two shoulder points at E and F, from C to D is 1 1/2 inches. Now mark out the front all around, now take half of C and D makes G, now draw a straight line from G to H, curve from C D to E F as shown on diagram, this makes the shoulder dart. Now make the circle by G from B to H and J, from D to I is the front neck and from I to J is the front, this dart can be taken out to any amount wanted, this completes the cape with a shoulder dart.

LONG SHOULDER SEAM CAPE.

LESSON 35.

This cape is also begun the same way as the others, it also carries the same measurements, this cape shall measure from 50–54 inches in length. To begin draw out lines as usual, from A to B is 7 inches depth, from A to C is 15 1/2 inches natural length, from C to D is 6 inches hip length, from A to E is 50 inches full length. Now draw all out lines for the back as always. I is the width of back line and G is the regular box line. (Now draft the other out-lines for the front as usual. Now measure the bust as always to Y, front Y to X is 3 inches for seams draw a straight line down from X to Z. From Z to 1 is 1/2 inch, cross a line from X down to the bottom 4, from 3 to 4 is 2 inches, now make the button stand from W to 15, from X to 2, from 4 to 3 is 2 inches. Now make the bottom of this cape, the bottom of such garment shall be carefully considered before the bottom is made. The bottom width for all full length garments shall measure the same as the length, this cape measures 50 inches in length, this 50 inches shall be divided as follows, from E to 13 shall measure 20 inches in the back, from 9 to 12 shall measure 30 inches, to make this clearly understood, divide always the amount in half and 5 inches less for the back, and 5 inches more for the front. Now draw the back side lines from 13 against or up to M. For the front also from 7 up to U, now curve the back at the shoulder from L lost with round curve at J down to M, from 13 to 14 is 1 inch, curve 14 to E. Now the front from 12 to 9, in order to be sure that the proper lengths for the side seam, measure the back from L, M, down to 14 and apply the same amount to the front from to U to 12, it shall be 1/4 of an inch longer. Now curve the neck part for the front and back. This completes the long shoulder seam cape.