Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/74

65 REGULAN TOP COAT.

LESSON 28.

This garment is drafted on the same principles as the short box coat alsaalso [sic] by the same measurements, to begin draw all lines as usual at A, B, C, D, depth natural waist length, hip length, N is the full length of coat, from B to G is 2/3rds. of size or 12 inches for 36. H is half or B and G, from H to I is 1 1/4 inches, draw a line up from I to J and lines for the shoulders as usual. Now divide I to G makes 4, now draw a line from 4 to E down to the bottom line 11, this makes the side or back. Now measure from 4 to 5 1 1/2 inches, now complete the front shoulder as usual, also measure the bust and 3 inches allowed for seams to X, from X draw a straight line down to 1, this is the hip line. Now measure from 1 to R the hip measure and from R to 3 is 2 inches, now cross a line from 5 to 3 down to 13, in order to finish the bottom, take from 11 to 12 1 inch up and corvecurve [sic] to N. Now measure from 4 to 12, and make the same from 5 to 13, now allow the button stand, from X to Y and from 7 to 8 is 2 1/2 inches, now draw a line in front from Y to 8 and 14 to 15. Now connect 15 to 13 with a curved line. The lapel of this garment is the same as other, from W to Z is 3 inches, from? Z to 10 is 2 1/2 inches, this space can be changed to any width wanted, now connect 10 to Y with a round line, the trace of the collar and lapel is showing the effect when the collar and lapel is finished. Now begin the regular shoulders, first start at the back from L to 4 draw a line, now place a square on the line halfway to meet the shoulder point from 2 to M, now divide 2 and M makes 6, now curve as shown on the diagram, from L to 6 down to the arm-hole at 4. Now begin the front shoulder, from O to 23 is 3/4 of an inch, now draw a line from 23 to the arm-hole notch at 30.

Now square A line across from 24 to meet the shoulder point at U, now divide from 24 to U makes 25. Now curve from 23 to 25 and 30, this completes the regular shoulder at the front and back, the regular pockets are as usual, this top is marked for a flap instead of a veil as shown on diagram. The side pocket is marked from the regular pocket in order to begin the side pocket draw a straight line down from F to 32, is at the hip line and 31 is the waist line, now divide from 31 to 32 makes 16 whtrewhere [sic] the regular pocket takes place. Now measure from 31 to 26 1-1/2 inch, also from 32 to27 1-1/2 inch, now draw a line from 26 to make the place for the side pocket, now mark the well as shown on diagram.