Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/67

Rh HOW TO DRAFT A LONG HALF FITTING HELPLESS COAT WITH A SHALL COLLAR.

LESSON 25.

To begin, to draft use the regular foundation line, and measure for the depth, waist and hip. The full length of this garment is about 42 inches. The width of back for this garment is the same as usual 3/4 for seams, from M to N are also allowed as usual, the space at the waist line for the back from 12 to 16 is 1/6 of size or 3 inches for size 36, and one more inch at the hip line which is 4 inches from 11 to 18; between 16 and 19 is 1/2 of an inch; from 18 to 17 to increase the side body is also 1/3 of an inch. Now draw straight lines down from 16 against 18 down to 21 which is the bottom and from 19 to 17 down to 30. At the under arm from G to 9 and E to 5 is 3/4 of an inch. Inside. Cross the back this this space is thrown a line from 9 to 10 against E down to 25 which is the inside side body towards the back. From 4 to 3 is also 1/2 of an inch, draw a line from G to 3; from 3 against 5 down to 22. The french, Beams crossing the shoulder are divided in half which is at the back; from L to N which makes 26 and at the front shoulder divide from O to U which is the regular width of the shoulder built according to this back space or L to M. The center of the front shoulder is 27. From 27 to 37 is 3/8 of an inch, and from 27 to 36 is also. This amounts to 3/4 of an inch allowed for the french seams which we allowed at the back from M to N. In order to continue the front part, divide the front for the dart line from F to Y which makes X. Now allow on the waist line from 6 to 3/4 of an inch, and take the space from Y to X at the waist line; from 7 to 30, draw a straight line down from X to 30 down to 29. Now divide from 30 to X which makes 28; connect