Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/57

Rh ETON FRONT WITH A DART ON TOP

LESSON 17.

This pattern is cut out from a french seam eton out side and inside front parts.

To begin this, mark out the front part 1 from H, I, J, G, to H, when this front part is marked out, place the inside front, part 2 over the outside front width 3/4 inch left over from J to C and N to 0, this 3/4 of an inch is reduced as we do not want any seams at this place. Now mark the other parts of the inside front;, from D, E, all around the arm hole to A, B, C, M, to D. Now finish the bottom, till in the break at J, curve from B to F, now allow scams at the dart, from D to L is 3/8 of an inch, also from K to L, now draw lines L to M and K to M, this will complete the Eton front with the dart on top.

BLOUSE.

LESSON 18. The blouse is planned on the same foundation lines the other drafts, from A to B is 7 inches depth, from A to C 15 1/2 inches natural waist length, cross lines from A to W, from B C now begin the box lines, from B to G is 2/3rds of the size 13 inches also C to E, now divide from B to G makes H, from H to I is 1-1/4 inch. Now raise a line from I to J, now measure from A to K 1/6 of size or 3 inches, from K to L is always 1 inch, now cross a line from L crossing at J to M. M is the width of shoulder, the proper way to get M is by making a square line from L to J, M to meet at I, now begin to draft the line, from C to D is always 2 inches, now cross a line D to A, this completes the incline of the body. Now begin the front, front. from G to F is 1/6 of size or 3 inches, now raise a line from F to Q, from Q to F is 1/6 of size, also from P to is 1/6 of size or 3 inches, now cross a line from to T, T is at the depth point in back this line gives the front shoulder, in order to have the proper width of shoulder in front, measure the back shoulder first from L to M and the same O to U. Now draw a line from U to F for the front arm hole, now measure the bust, from T to S is half of bust 19-1/2 inches for 39 bust measurement, and from S to E is 3 inches for seams, and draw a line from W to R and XX Now divide the space from 1 to G makes N. draw a line from N to 7, now take out both sides of N 3/4 of an inch at 5 and 6 at the waist line both sides of 7 take out 3 inches at 4 and 9, now cross lines from 5 to 4 and from 6 to 9 after having all lines we shorten the length of waist as shown on  the diagram, from D to 8, from 8 to 4, from E to 9 is 1/2 inch up or shorten in waist length. Now begin to curve from A to L, from L to M, from M to J the back arm hole, from 6 begins the front arm hole raise up a seam allowance from 6, as shown on the diagram and curve to G and, U this is the front arm hole, from O to U make the same curve as from L to M, now curve the front neck from O to W, the front for this garment shall be full, there is no shape only a straight line is needed. now curve the side seam from 5 to 4 and 6 to 9. Now curve the bottom from S to 4 and from 9 to XX, the bottom curve of the front shall carefully be followed as shown on the diagram, this completes the blouse.

This diagram is the foundation for all blouse effect garments.