Page:The practical designer, for women's, misses', juniors' & children's cloaks & suits, shirt waist suits and dresses.djvu/52

43 ETON COAT

LESSON 14.

The Eton is built on the same cut-lines as all other garments, these garments are planned to natural waist length only. From A to B is 7" depth, from A to C is 15-1/2" natural waist length, now draw lines from A to W and from B to K, from C to V. Now make the box-lines the same as the others, from B to 6 is 2/3 rds. of size or 12 inches, and from C to El is also 13", draw, a line from E to G and up to top line, now divide B and G which makes H, from, H to I is 1-1/4", draw a line from P to Q, from Q to P is 1/6 of size or 3", from P to W is also 1/6 of size or 3", from P to W is also 1/6 of size or 3", and a seam allowed. From C to 8 is 2". draw a line from 8 to A, now connect line from the front neck point to the back depth T. Measure the back shoulder from L to M and make the same from O to U, draw a line to F, now take half of I and G which makes N, from N to 5 or 6 is 3/4" on both sides, draw a straight line from down from N to make 7, from 7 to E to 10 is 2 1/2 inches. Now connect lines from 5 to 10 and from 6 to E, the length of waist shall be made shorter inback for this garment by a half inch as shown on diagram, as 8 to D—— 10 to 4———E to 9———. Now measure the bust, from T from T to S is 19 1/2" this is 39 bust measure, from S to R there is 3 inches inches for seams, now make a straight line down, from R to V and Y, from V to Y is 1/2 of size or 2 1/4 inches this makes a long waist in front Front. From? to Z is 3/4 inches, this space is only raised, up in order to get the close tight fitting neck. From Z to 1 is one inch for button stand, from R to S is also one inch, from Y to X is also one inch for button stand.

Now curve both lines from Z, R, V and Y, this line is the depth of front and 1 to X is 1 inch, the lines for button stand. Curve this the same as the inside line from Z to Y. For hook and eye front use the depth of this front without the button stand and for buttoning purposes including the 1 inch space used outside line from 1 to X. Now we begin to curve, from A, L. to M. M to 5 also curve on both sides of the side body to 4 and 6 to 9. Now curve the arm-hole from G to 14, 14 to G and round up to U. From U to O is the front shoulder, the two shoulders should be should be [sic] curved alike, now curve hethe [sic] neck from to Z and the book for buttoning from Z to 1. Now curve the bottom of the waist from D to 4, hallow out a small amount as shown on diagram from 10 towards Y. We curve at Z a 1/2 inch up and finish up to X. This completes the Eton Coat without any dart in front, this will make a loose front and no gathering is required.